Tuesday 28 April 2020

G . O : Books


Getting On :


Books : Metric Pattern Cutting

Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting , 1991 (reprinted and extended) - Original 1976.
This pattern cutting book was a staple at my university for fashion students, and we had 3 editions in the library. The contents are organised with students in mind - the acknowledgements show this, with the advice sought and the technical drawings are clear and easy to understand. The text explains any details clearly, and any references for differing details or options are all referenced well. Allowing any reader to find the page and compare the information and choices. Whether its referring to another basic block, the processes included or fit issues to address.

The editions we had available at university led me to look for any edition I could own for myself, because of my interest in fashion, while on my textiles design - weaving course. I got this edition as a lucky find while on a textiles/fashion trip to a old English home, which had a second hand book shop as an extension to the gifts shop. I  unfortunately can't remember the name of the place, but I do remember the purchase and how lucky I was to find the book. Let alone the first person to pick it up out of all the students. At the time I had found others online for 4/6 times the price, even well used. While this one though sun damaged on the spine, its pristine.


Reads - ' Metric pattern cutting has now been extended to
include a new section on computer pattern grading and
numerous blocks have been added to this edition.
Having become the recognised leader in its field, this book
 is written for  beginners and will be equally valuable to
students of fashion and design, clothing manufacturers
and the creative home dressmaker.

Anyone who wants to create patterns for original clothing
designs can follow the techniques directly from the simple
 diagrams and step-by-step instructions in this book. It also
shows how to combine the technique of good pattern
 cutting with the principles of design and so to create an
almost  limitless variety of styles.

Winifred Aldrich is an experienced designer and lecturer in
design and pattern cutting.' 










The blurb summarises the intentions of this book better than how I was trying to explain.  Each edition adds to the content and advice for those using the book at the time. Modernising and adapting as needed. Even the contents and the chapters change - in later editions this goes through sections of how clothes fit the body - body hugging - or adding information for newer materials and processes. The basics are always covered to help anyone who needs to go back to basics or just starting - with basic blocks, measurements and toiles.

I've included a select few pages I've kept marked for myself, since the month I brought this book, to show the brilliant instructions and technical drawings included. Books like these are so important to students and at home sewers to teach anyone what they might need. Further instruction or watching videos and going to classes may be needed, but having a reference that is clear and adaptable to aid in designing is amazing. I find it inspiring to go through books for sewing, and  needle-craft.
Flipping through pages remind me to try different sleeves and fits. Going out of my comfort zone a little to practice and build my skills.


I hope others find inspiration in the editions of this book, any similar books or in any way that works best for them.





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Friday 24 April 2020

C . W : Pattern


Changing Wardrobes : 


Patterns : 1250 & 6433


Both of these patterns were brought while I was in Derby - but on separate visits to the market stall, about 2013-2015. This was one of my favourite stalls as they had a great collection of printed fabrics, patterns, and they often had swatches for pennies. Great for tests, mock up, illustrations, and research for sketchbooks. I really miss having these stalls to explore, but I do enjoy my local haberdasheries - but the best one is a quilting shop and knitting.

























These two patterns are of two very different styles of dresses in the construction and structure of them. Simpliciity 1250 is a reprint of a structured bodice with a circular dress/skirt with a blouse - from the 1950s. It has a peplum trim with the suggestion to add lace and layering up over the bodice in elbow length and a short sleeve. This style really does appeal to me, however I often feel like strapless dresses make slip down on me. Making a dress like this for myself means I add as much construction I need and get the fit to the point I feel like the dress would't drop when going out for dinner - while dancing I think any strapless dress will need to be adjusted at some point. The fabrics would need to have some structure to them - tighter weaves to the fabric so more expensive cotton can be used - but satin and lace could make a very nice combination.

6433 from New Look Easy is a simple yet chic style for loose but flattering style dresses - I love the draped back. The option to do the back was my reason for buying this pattern as I don't often wear loose dresses - its been more recent I even have maxi dresses. I find them best for driving, hot days and doing my hobbies - sewing mostly. This style won't be the most flattering so I would go more towards a fun colour or print that I would relax in.  I might not get the fit I want on my hips and stomach but their are similar dresses which fit the bust and flow down the rest of the body. It will take some adjusting, same with making the back a bigger statement. I would always go maxi with a long sleeve I think.

I still want to try making both of these but I'd have to invest in making 1250 as I'd likely have an ideal in my head. But I have to take that ideal with a pinch of salt. I might not get the colour matches or perfect pattern. I might have to unpick the same few bits over and over.  6433 I would just need something with a good drape. A fun colour or print would be good but I'm more likely to be less picky. I feel like the silhouettes are very classic, however not the most flattering for everybody.







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Tuesday 21 April 2020

G . O : Living Space


Getting On : Kitchen wall art


I moved into this flat and couldn't find anything  to decorate the kitchen, beyond a vase and a recipe tin to decorate the space. I did make some curtains with my fabric stash to match some of our appliances and cupboards  - black and white. So I decided I needed some colour and use up some paint while I was at it.

Since we just moved in it made sense to use up these canvas boards, and paint to free up even a little space - to help me enjoy the space.
We had decided to go with yellow for the kitchen, for a few reasons; I love mustard yellow, my vase, it works nicely with black and white, and lastly its a bright and strong colour since we don't get  alot of direct sun in from this window after 8am. It helps that my partner wanted some bee themed, yellow and cream beige additions to the kitchen and for dining table.




I started a quick sketch of the flowers I wanted - Daisies just like my fabric for the curtains. With sketchy outlines and all white. Then I did the backgrounds for the canvas with layers of yellow, mustard and a few mixed tones - in gouache(the darker mustard - i had more of this than any other yellow) and acrylic. 
While those dried I decided on my composition and whited out an area I decided the flowers and other features would be. Layering the white only where the petals and other bright features would be. It took me a while to be happy with the background - since I don't have much practice with backgrounds - textured or detailed.



I took a full day to do both canvases - alternating as they dried helped. I'm not super happy with the end results just content and they provide the colour I needed for the space. I do have a home for when I finally replace them - my nana wants them both and enjoys them more than I do.





















Saturday 18 April 2020

C . W : Outfit

Changing Wardrobes : Light Blue Maxi


I've recently sewn this dress from fabric I brought at a charity shop - right before lock-down and sewn it a week and half into the stay at home order. So, while I really like how the dress came out the fabric might not have been my first choice. I also have no garden to sit and wear it, but its good and flow-y for sewing and relaxing at home.


























I really do like the shade of light blue. I can think of a lot of combinations with my current wardrobe, my first choice is my light tan faux leather jacket and plenty of silver jewellery. Adding some little boots till summer hits. The flower print, is a lot more varied than the other fabrics I picked up. I could also play off of these colours a lot more too.

This was my second try at a maxi frilly trimmed dress, with this type of fabric. I was greatly inspired by With Wendy to try this. I am a lot curvier than her so I knew the relaxed fit wouldn't be the same on my body, along with my limited amount of fabric. I  knew I wanted to have more of a play when making a second dress - I did a pleated back panel, and created my own cutout back for more fit and structure up top.
The end of the ties on the back, are finished with beads. These were the best fit from what i already own, I also didn't want anything too heavy. I think next time I would go for a contrasting softer fabric for the ties. The hem is also a gentle high/low hem, meaning the back does need a thick sole or heel to not touch the floor. 

This was just dress 2, out of 6 that I've made since the lock-down. So, I'm a little tired of sewing dresses already. But I'm looking forward to finding more inspiration to get me to knuckle back down.
Stay home and stay safe. Use your stashes and do what makes you happy.




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Wednesday 15 April 2020

G . O : Living Space


Getting On : Studio wall 








 I have a small wall where I'd be hard pressed to find a cupboard to fit my odd sized tower for my PC. So, I have decorated this with a cork board and art. Everything here I've made myself or remind me of people.The cork board its self is decorated by me, as I needed something to be practical at a previous home that added some more colour to a bedroom. I wasn't allowed to paint or redecorate the space.

Cat - Mam, and visiting york.
Sign - Emily, an old housemate.
Polaroid - Dad, its of us when i was young, visiting a zoo.*
Mini print - Nana, London trip with two of my sisters.
Embroidery - I made this, with my nana in mind, but I wasn't happy with the result to give it to her.
Carriage - Old Christmases - we've lost a few of these. I think they use to be string lights and maybe used them as toys.
Ticket - Emma, a school friend. We love going to the arcades.
Postcard, lady - Step mam - she brought this for me and wrote the sweetest message.
Larger prints - London trip with two of my sisters and nana - I got to show a few areas I'd visited with friends too.


Bow, Tags, clothes peg - I've made/decorated these for practical reasons to use but wanted more colour.

*Yes I am scared to death, I couldn't put down my hand before they put away the small snake. I tried to be brave with the little one. I wasn't ready for one that was about 4/5 times longer.




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Sunday 12 April 2020

C . W : Pattern


Changing Wardrobes :


Pattern : Beach Cover ups Aug. 2013 and Kaftan Aug.2018




With summer coming, I thought it was a god idea to combine using my fabric stash and creating something for the beach and hotter weather. Since I have no big holiday plans for this year (especially with the stay home and self-isolation at the moment), but since I do have a wedding in Italy to plan for in the future. I'm being hopeful and keeping myself busy. If nothing else I can plan to do a winter/autumn visit to another hot tub and sit out there in the rain at daft hours of the night with a few good friends.


The beach cover up - left - comes with a pattern that shows obvious options to add contrasting trims and a lot less hemming than the kaftan. Lengthening should be easy. While the fit - for me - is probably not desirable the cut in the neckline would be really nice. This could be lined for comfort on windy days or a towel/fleece like fabric for drying. Making something more cosy. Or bias bound edges could be a method to lean towards if light weight/sheer fabrics would be preferred. It is suggested to use cotton or jersey. Linen might be another idea if you struggle to find certain prints or colours. (Below the beach cover up is on the right). I like that this style covers more of the arm and reduces some bulk from


The kaftan - right - gives me ideal lengths that might be preferred. Another suggested option is to add a trim or use the edges of the fabric. Fabric that are suitable include cotton, silk and linen. But with a cover up and skills could mean lace, sheer fabrics, printed panels and scrap fabric panels or quilts that are made or brought. While this gives a lot of options for colours, combinations and patterns, the width and depth of fabric available might limit some options depending on the size wanted.
For this style, a lot hemming will be involved in this style and also, if wanted, lining. A lot of fabric would be used and be worn on the body.
I would personally go for a a single layer fabric, bias bind the edges - contrasting or similar - at the shorter length. Hem the sides and neck. Turning the bottom edge and applying a trim to it. Lace has been a favourite addition to my projects lately. Often I try to colour match a trim to something in my patterned fabric. Adding a tie at the waist would help me find my preferred fit, when wearing the cover. I'd still have the option to wear it as loose as I'd like.



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Thursday 9 April 2020

C . W : Outfit


Changing Wardrobes : Skirt and lace top



My featured outfit is this skirt that  has a black lining and a ribbed fabric design to the over skirt. With a zip in the back and a wide elastic waistband. It pairs nicely as an all black outfit or with colourful top and cardigans. I wear a lot of yellow lately, especially that's rich deep toned yellow or mustard - so I would pair with this lace top.


Together, I would wear a black vest top, or longer sleeved with these two. Long sleeves in black would let the lace really stand out.  Tights or dark socks would be nice, but not necessary with the stay at home rules at the moment. I like loose clothing while staying at home for doing hobbies - sewing, baking and art. I often only have the ties on the top tied for hobbies only. Its not a flattering look for me to have these tied. As for shoes, I would wear my Disney low tops or all black slip-ons or even plimsolls. I could wear with my low boots, suede with a kitten heel.




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Friday 3 April 2020

G . O : Workspace


Getting On : 

Workspace - My Desk 

Image may contain: indoor

Well, I have my work space more furnished for me now. I moved in January 2019, I starter with building a desk after my first few months - I didn't have a desk to move int with, until my partner. But he also got an upgrade later on too. So it took me entire day to put together this desk from B&M, only because the 'locks' for the interlocking sections are super annoying for me. But when it was done I had a clean white desk with; my oldest sewing machine (its a year older than me), my computer at an angle and my brocade style place-mat. I finally had work space for myself, my art and just general filing of things away. So the next jump was to fill my shelves, just under the desktop - too easy, and to customise my space and the white walls I was sticking with. I didn't feel like I want to hang too much or paint because this is my first place renting, with my partner of 10 years - I simply don't know how long we will stay here. So I got some art up too - If you follow my Instagram you likely found this fell down - scared the life outta me at 12/1am to not realise this happened till the next day. Luckily - I hope I don't jinx this - this hasn't fallen again, yet.

No photo description available.


















1st black shelves, then white desk
It was always the plan to save up and come back to add more storage that would fit well for both of us. Well the first addition was these tall slim DVD / CD shelving, we got from amazon. This came in about 5 boxes, but the shelving is similar to IKEA and we can adapt the shelving height. This is perfect for my partners dragons, and both of our collects of DVDs, games and books. With space to grow, as well. But we have papers and files and other collections to store.
So, the next thought was deeper shelves and cupboards but they also had to fit in either 2 spaces. By the door or by the window.


I picked out this glass fronted cupboard that was close to the depth of the wall and a deep shelving unit -both are deep enough that they will let me have folded fabric, boxes and best yet, my sewing machines stored sideways. I have two full sized and the cutest mini machine (that is a real pain to use, but it was my first and the only one I've brought myself).  When I got these units, my partner also treated themselves to a new desk - this is a kids desk pulled to full height and is no more than 2 cm shorter than mine. The pull was the shelving attached to the back and the legs have mini shelves between them - ideal for cable management or as he uses them for pencil cases, sweets and cable ties.

I still haven't decorated the glass front cupboards as the doors have to be clipped completely to do it - unlike the descriptions from IKEA.I had two guys and me putting these together and it was still difficult. So I want to display my swatches and art in the doors. But because its a right faff I am holding off until I can find a combination I won't want to change straight away.



In the end I have the shelves and cupboards pretty full already, but there's some areas for aesthetics, and only a little left as a space to grow if any. But I have also freed up space elsewhere, since I had a jumble of stuff in other areas. Now I have things collected together and loosely organised. I have been trying to go through my fabric stash, since I finished this. It's a lot quicker now since I know where my zips are, my ribbons, thread has three bins and patterns are all gathered together as usual. Decorating a these bits and pieces has also been a fun way to use up my art supplies too, as well to enjoy the space.



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