Friday 18 December 2020

G . O : Watercolours Filling in Time

  


Getting On :


Watercolours : Filling in Time Over Christmas




I brought this set from Lidl to fill out some time over Christmas and get back into watercolours. I didn't want anything fancy just to sway up my activities a bit and a bit more mindless hobby. I do paint from time to time and just needed something I didn't design. It was nice to try to colour in. I don't think the line work is all clear for the details. But I could definitely be more careful while painting. 


After all, I was trying this as practice as well as fun. I still have more linework to fill in and even more to detail on the pieces I've started. I'm so glad the paper is good quality and lets me work on different pieces and there are duplicates, so they can be given away or re-attempted. 
The robin design got my attention first and always makes me think of winter and my nana. She loves robins and would always point them out when we were kids, along any red squirrels we could find.






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Friday 4 December 2020

G . O : Patterns

  


Getting On :


Patterns : Feb 2015 & Sept 2015





Both of these patterns were gifts, passed to me from readers of Prima, I have the coat pattern from February 2015 & the dress pattern from September 2015. I like Prima patterns for their size range - and I usually collect patterns like this, as while I can grade sizes for a decent part. I like to trace a size I need and keep these paper, with any adjustments I make. While, there is no direct comparison here, I still plan to layout which I'm more likely to sew. I paired these two for comfortable autumn/winter wear, with the length options to make things more comfortable for different weathers and temperatures.


Prima Feb. 2015, on the left, is a trench coat style, with a wide collar and tie with a structure to the fit of the coat. It's suggested to sew in wool or wool mix. If you wanted I imagine a cotton mix treated for weather and water proofing would also be a great mix. This would likely need a more fitted look, facings and linings. Coats are something I need to try and practice more - I've sewn with wool and mostly enjoyed it. Just had to remember to keep up with hovering the space. I don't currently have a coat fitted like this - but I have some in a hoodie style, one for dresses and others are loose/not so fitted. I tend to not favour a large collar. This can be trimmed back with wool once made or use snap backs/buttons or stitches to pin them out the way. Or if more preferable close, closer to the neck. Wool and wool mixes comes in a lot more patterns and textures than ever. Examples could be a basic and classic beige camel, tartan, and block colours or tones. More modern twists mean a coat could be made with an Ombre fabric with metallic or dyed half/edge. The result could result in a classic and well used/fitted wardrobe addition or a striking unique piece for an event or specific outfit. I'd love a bright red, but as I have such a coat - I'd likely go for camel or a red tartan.


Prima Sept. 2015, on the right, is a loose draped dress with a pair of darts in the back. A gathered front around the neckline. There are two lengths of dress and sleeves. There are two As you can imagine, looking at a a pattern like this - it requires fabric that drapes well, with options in jersey, polyester, silk, and viscose. Some mixes would do well, if they don't have a body that makes the fabric too stiff. A dress in this style or similar can usually be brought or made in jersey, throughout the year. This pattern would be great for trying different fabrics - to learn how to treat them and the differences it makes in the end result. With such a staple dress you can't go too wrong with print, colour or fabrics. For myself I'd love to see an emerald green silk or jersey. I don't have enough dresses in either fabric, and while I love green I don't find the shades I like. Paired with the coat in camel I'd be warm enough with either result. 


In the end, both patterns are great and as I started out - I think these make a great pairing and would love to see these both made. Both patterns can make a potential staple for a wardrobe, but for myself I'd start with the coat. I don't buy many and wool is still an investment to me when I sew. I'd buy a coating fabric I'm in love with and work hard at this. Whether I go for something unique with colours, materials or thread choice, or a staple designed to fit me perfectly I've been waiting for. I also know I'll learn a lot more about a different style and construction by sewing this. I don't often have side panels and always want to practice sleeves, even if I don't add a lining to them (would help with a longer life and itching for sensitive skin). I still want to see the result of an Ombre fabric, as much I don't see myself wearing it. 





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Tuesday 9 June 2020

G . O : Cushion Making


Getting On :


Cushion Making : 




Simple cushions but a gift since I brought the fabric with them in mind. I wanted them to look smart and I'm so glad that the binding added to the cushion, rather than aging them badly. I used a black poly cotton to give a smart look to the back. as well. 

I feel I made the cases a little too big and thus loose on the cushion. These however are for a bed and this might be more of a advantage. For a simple project it took me while to get to.

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Friday 22 May 2020

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 


Patterns :  The Charlie Shirt Dress & Dec 2016

Threaders The Charlie Shirt Dress & Prima Dec 2016



Dresses, my largest section in my pattern collection. These two dresses are very different in styles and presentation but I'd happily wear either style for causal or a little dressy for an evening out. Threader's - The charlie shirt dress, on the left, has different lengths and sleeve options to change the look. A more casual style in general for a day /utility dress for function, but many shirt dresses have been worn and dressed up for an evening out. Even if the trend to do so can be a little dated, colour blocking, fine/patterned fabrics and accessories alongside comfort still keep them about.
On the right, the Prima's December 2016 dress has a simple silhouette and a more dressed up feel inherently - largely from the peak-a-boo shoulder with long sleeve. Maxi dresses might be worn more causally but there's a boho style to them. This shift style goes for more a simple chic look.





























The fabrics suggested for these two dresses are very different. Threader's shirt dress suggests the cotton, linen,  poplin and medium weight woven fabrics, very common for this style of dress. Pattern will create most of the variety. Buttons could be contrasting to complimentary as well. If confident with collars and necklines, a sewer could experiment with different changes and styles.
Silk crepe de china, polyester crepe, fine wool crepe are so different but perfect for the silhouette of the DEC. 2016 pattern, it will give the dress the body and flow for the dress. As these fabrics will sit relaxed on the body, allowing for the shift style dress, rather than hugging the body. I think the longer length will allow any chosen fabrics to really shine and might lend itself to a more casual look for a summer maxi to dress up. A short dress with long sleeves may be very understated depending on the fabric, but more difficult to wear everyday.

My preference my both these patterns would be the longer version. The shirt dress I'd likely do the vest style or cap sleeve. I can see myself sewing both these in a block colour first and foremost, but I'd most likely want a pattern for the shirt dress and a lovely texture to Dec. 2016. As for which I'd pick up to sew first would be depending on plans in the future or how busy I've been.  I've sewn a few maxi dresses from scratch, so I don't need more casual dresses - but I also have no where to go. The summers best weather will be passed me  soon so Dec.2016 most likely won't be sewn this year, unless Christmas has any big parties for me.

I'll have to go with the shirt dress, utility and wear-ability will likely win out, alongside the need to practice buttons and button holes. I could also make false button stands if I have too much trouble or feel like the button stand needs any reinforcement.


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Wednesday 13 May 2020

C . W : Patterns


Changing Wardrobes : 


Patterns : April 2016 & 5848


These two patterns, I'm going to compare are both comfy clothes which can be plain or as bright and quirky as anyone would like. While , the first (left) pattern is Prima's April 2016 culottes and (right is) Butterwick 5848 is a jumper/over top in two lengths, it could even been worn as a dress - they can both be worn as casual or even statement pieces for an outfit. I like the variety that could be involved with either pattern. 



















These two patterns can be created with linen, silk and lace, surprisingly these are the most common fabrics that are comparable for the two patterns - lace is the only suggestion I'd likely consider. However silk would be amazing, but expensive. The culottes include suggestions for poly crepe and light weight wool. Some wool trousers lined would be nice and smart.
While cotton, cotton mix and jersey are options and mostly likely the options I'd pick for the jumper. These fabrics have a lot more pattern/colour options, I'd be interested in buying. I might not find it suits me after but I am trying to wear more of my makes, as I enjoy the fabrics and patterns. Combinations might not always work but this is considered before cutting any fabric, and if I want to make another I'll usually have a better idea what to do next. The chosen fabric  will greatly change the look and structure of any garment - silk will drape and flow more with ease than jersey, that's more weighty and wool will have even more body and depending on whats brought can be stiff and look more boxy for the culottes.

I'd likely make the culottes first - mainly as I am looking at sewing more trousers for myself and having fun with lace and wool as later attempts. Getting more confident with pockets and cuffing trousers. The butterwick 5848 jumper is not something I'd wear to enjoy but I can see the longer dress style could be fun, but I might not be investing the materials and time I'd need to make something I want.




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Sunday 10 May 2020

C . W : Outfit


Changing Wardrobes : Black midi and Cardigan



This dress is a warm thicker material than some of the others, but stretchy. Without too much give,  so good for staying at home and still needing to run out. It's a more suitable length, but i actually like bunching up maxi's when I sew.
I love the high neck with the keyhole, which for more could be bigger. No sleeves, so better for warmer weather, but not the stifling heat we get every 3 days for the past month. The mustard cardigan is a great pop of colour, and my favourite addition to any outfit at the moment. Especially any black outfit. I'd say wear nude tight s and kitten heels, but I've been wear no tights/socks with my cheap-ie runabout shoes - black with a white sole. I can feel made up and still just throw my hair back or up as needed.

I actually liked this dress so much, I originally brought it in two sizes, from primark, 3 years ago. The fit was relaxed in the size 14 and loved the hug for the size 12. The cardigan is also from primark just from 2019. I really like to wear in my cardigans and either buy 1 or buy 3/4 at a time.






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Thursday 7 May 2020

G . O : Project


Getting On :


Project : Box Recycling




I have had an idea to do hampers for people before the lock down, and recycling some boxes I have for a nice presentation. Since lock down - I want and would need to be able to send them through the post. So I figured decorate some boxes - using up my old paints to make some more space, and treat a few more people to something nice. I've actually moved on from my first two boxes, started making some gifts for people and came back to do another one in a completely different style. I won't say who they are for, or what inspired me in case any friends follow any links to this blog. No matter how unlikely.

I went for having fun and using mostly what paints I have mixed up and in my collection (I haven't topped up my paints in a long time). I used acrylic paints and posca pens. I will also add these took several coats of white and are semi delicate - they will peel if I'm not careful. Also to post these to my recipients I will also wrap these, making them a very colourful surprise. Each box was made with a person in mind, so I hope it'll be a good surprise.











I was a lot more playful with the first two, and left them a little messy on purpose. The second box I have photographed half finished as the next details will reveal who its for. I could have left the box as it was - I was happy with how it came out, even with the antlers looking a little chunky in places.


I had a lot of fun recycling these boxes and filling my time, the idea of someone receiving the box is a lot of fun as well. While it took a good part of 3 days work, I will state I do not expect anyone to keep these boxes. Acrylic paint can peel and stick to other items, especially when not sealed.




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Monday 4 May 2020

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 


Patterns : 8127 Versus 5751



I have a desire or need to collect patterns for dresses above all other types of clothing. Dresses are my favourite to buy, to look through and what I also tend to sew. Both of these patterns have similar silhouettes, but achieved differently. Namely the number of panels and the pleating of Butterwick's 5751 pattern on the right. Which I think is my favourite of these two. I can see some great options for colour blocking and pairing fabrics. Then I see more adaptability in this pattern, as well -  increasing the bottom width of panels for volume, pleating them to hid more colour, piecing fabric together for the pleats and draping more (though for the volume, an underskirt would be needed). I love the rounded neckline and straps/cap sleeve. I feel these would be more flattering my figure. I also feel I can control the fit more over my waist and stomach - opening the pleats/panels  where it feels best for me. Rather than having  a fuller skirt down from the waist.


While Simplicity's 8127 is posed as a costume pattern for Lolita and Rockabilly. The designs pictured are very eye catching and what drew me to purchase this pattern in the first place. I love Lolita and the shape of these dresses. Though I do not own any Lolita dresses and outfits, nor have I had the chance to sew them just yet. I know the silhouette is flattering but I am picky about patterns for such dresses. Patterns lend themselves so much to the character of such dresses and I would want to be happy with the result, though this idea might be led by the cover image. So time will tell if I ever find a good fabric for my first try. Partially I think the pattern's cover stops me from being creative with the dress I want to make, putting it behind 5751. Imagination is a lot when it comes to being inspired and interesting in sewing a project for me. I do feel like the shape overall would be flattering, but for best results, an underskirt and some adaptions.


In the end, I'm happy to own both patterns, I even feel I could swap some features between the two once I'm better acquainted with the patterns. I just feel 8127 is more of a costume, while I can picture 5751 as a day dress or dressed up or a fun combination of coloured fabrics. Speaking of which I'd probably buy cotton, gingham, broadcloth or linen - so if I found a stunning patterned fabric I'd probably match it to the style I think would suit it best.





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Friday 1 May 2020

C . W : Outfit


Changing Wardrobes : 


Outfits : Dark Blue Maxi


Charity shop fabric from a week before the lock-down - got turned into a dress within 1 week of the lock-down. Not a bad choice of fabric - I don't tend to sew this blouse-y chiffon material, but I do love my floral shirts. Especially with a darker base colour. So this one while maybe not something I'd typically buy, was defiantly my first choice from the charity shop. i love the larger print and the autumn colours, perfect for me in March - when I had sewn this - and the follow me through summer. Even at home, its good for relaxing and I really enjoy sewing and driving in such loose dresses.




Spaghetti straps and bias tape took a bit of practice but I'm really happy with this look. Its my first try at making a maxi dress for myself. This colour might not be the most flattering, however I often prefer darker colours. I think adding bold block colours to wear with this dress would be perfect.
A mustard cardigan to brighten it up, a tan lather jacket to let the dress stand out or wear my pale blue scarf are all good options for cooler days.. For shoes - this dress is a little long so chunky shoes or wedges are good to wear. I have three pairs in white, all are good options. While bright they will add a nice pop, without drowning in colour or patterns. I have a sweet gold chained purse in white - that is a favourite for me every summer after my friends wedding - she encouraged all bridesmaids to have a white purse for necessities.


I still feel like I could have gone bigger on the frills but I was trying to manage my limited fabric. I had very little waste.


I should also note this maxi and the pale blue maxi were inspired by WithWendy- a sewing and diy youtuber. While my fit and look are very different she was a good inspiration and I could see her working this fabric/similar fabric. Seeing the fabric being handled was great, as I've always been warily of using chiffon and over handling raw edges.


I'd defiantly want to sew something similar again, but I first plan to wear this and the other maxi in a bit. 

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Tuesday 28 April 2020

G . O : Books


Getting On :


Books : Metric Pattern Cutting

Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting , 1991 (reprinted and extended) - Original 1976.
This pattern cutting book was a staple at my university for fashion students, and we had 3 editions in the library. The contents are organised with students in mind - the acknowledgements show this, with the advice sought and the technical drawings are clear and easy to understand. The text explains any details clearly, and any references for differing details or options are all referenced well. Allowing any reader to find the page and compare the information and choices. Whether its referring to another basic block, the processes included or fit issues to address.

The editions we had available at university led me to look for any edition I could own for myself, because of my interest in fashion, while on my textiles design - weaving course. I got this edition as a lucky find while on a textiles/fashion trip to a old English home, which had a second hand book shop as an extension to the gifts shop. I  unfortunately can't remember the name of the place, but I do remember the purchase and how lucky I was to find the book. Let alone the first person to pick it up out of all the students. At the time I had found others online for 4/6 times the price, even well used. While this one though sun damaged on the spine, its pristine.


Reads - ' Metric pattern cutting has now been extended to
include a new section on computer pattern grading and
numerous blocks have been added to this edition.
Having become the recognised leader in its field, this book
 is written for  beginners and will be equally valuable to
students of fashion and design, clothing manufacturers
and the creative home dressmaker.

Anyone who wants to create patterns for original clothing
designs can follow the techniques directly from the simple
 diagrams and step-by-step instructions in this book. It also
shows how to combine the technique of good pattern
 cutting with the principles of design and so to create an
almost  limitless variety of styles.

Winifred Aldrich is an experienced designer and lecturer in
design and pattern cutting.' 










The blurb summarises the intentions of this book better than how I was trying to explain.  Each edition adds to the content and advice for those using the book at the time. Modernising and adapting as needed. Even the contents and the chapters change - in later editions this goes through sections of how clothes fit the body - body hugging - or adding information for newer materials and processes. The basics are always covered to help anyone who needs to go back to basics or just starting - with basic blocks, measurements and toiles.

I've included a select few pages I've kept marked for myself, since the month I brought this book, to show the brilliant instructions and technical drawings included. Books like these are so important to students and at home sewers to teach anyone what they might need. Further instruction or watching videos and going to classes may be needed, but having a reference that is clear and adaptable to aid in designing is amazing. I find it inspiring to go through books for sewing, and  needle-craft.
Flipping through pages remind me to try different sleeves and fits. Going out of my comfort zone a little to practice and build my skills.


I hope others find inspiration in the editions of this book, any similar books or in any way that works best for them.





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Friday 24 April 2020

C . W : Pattern


Changing Wardrobes : 


Patterns : 1250 & 6433


Both of these patterns were brought while I was in Derby - but on separate visits to the market stall, about 2013-2015. This was one of my favourite stalls as they had a great collection of printed fabrics, patterns, and they often had swatches for pennies. Great for tests, mock up, illustrations, and research for sketchbooks. I really miss having these stalls to explore, but I do enjoy my local haberdasheries - but the best one is a quilting shop and knitting.

























These two patterns are of two very different styles of dresses in the construction and structure of them. Simpliciity 1250 is a reprint of a structured bodice with a circular dress/skirt with a blouse - from the 1950s. It has a peplum trim with the suggestion to add lace and layering up over the bodice in elbow length and a short sleeve. This style really does appeal to me, however I often feel like strapless dresses make slip down on me. Making a dress like this for myself means I add as much construction I need and get the fit to the point I feel like the dress would't drop when going out for dinner - while dancing I think any strapless dress will need to be adjusted at some point. The fabrics would need to have some structure to them - tighter weaves to the fabric so more expensive cotton can be used - but satin and lace could make a very nice combination.

6433 from New Look Easy is a simple yet chic style for loose but flattering style dresses - I love the draped back. The option to do the back was my reason for buying this pattern as I don't often wear loose dresses - its been more recent I even have maxi dresses. I find them best for driving, hot days and doing my hobbies - sewing mostly. This style won't be the most flattering so I would go more towards a fun colour or print that I would relax in.  I might not get the fit I want on my hips and stomach but their are similar dresses which fit the bust and flow down the rest of the body. It will take some adjusting, same with making the back a bigger statement. I would always go maxi with a long sleeve I think.

I still want to try making both of these but I'd have to invest in making 1250 as I'd likely have an ideal in my head. But I have to take that ideal with a pinch of salt. I might not get the colour matches or perfect pattern. I might have to unpick the same few bits over and over.  6433 I would just need something with a good drape. A fun colour or print would be good but I'm more likely to be less picky. I feel like the silhouettes are very classic, however not the most flattering for everybody.







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