C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : March 2015 & July 2019

March 2015 Prima Pattern on the left has culottes and loose boxy top, in a long enough to almost hit the hips. The top has 3 option, including a lace trim. I have noted on the pattern I would lengthen this pattern, this in is relation to the culottes as I don't like most trousers hitting me mid leg. The length -with shop brought clothes- are often too long and hit the wrong part of my ankle/leg. I'd have this hit mid ankle or shorten to hit a little higher on me. This pattern will be comfy but likely need to be adjusted for most people. Shortening the top for a more purposeful boxy top or even a loose crop top. 

While on the right, I have July 2019 Prima Pattern with a loose top with a few options on length, hem shaped and front detail. A very comfy style again and loose fitting - the type you could wear all summer or as a cover up. With this style you could also length the sleeves by another 3/4cm and roll hem as decoration.

For me - I lean towards the March 2015 pattern - both for the top and culottes. I like a boxy top - but either men's or shorter - hitting the waist not the hips. The suggestion of the lace details are very appealing. As is playing with a fit of the culottes, extending the hem a little I can easier shorten them as needed.

I like a loose trouser with pleats in the waistband, giving plentily of space for hips and movement. I could see making a set with cotton/polyester culottes and a top of printed or textured viscose. Contrasting colours and print could be a lot of fun. 

The left pattern 5827 appears to be very simple with the option for contrasting fabrics and high keyhole opening.

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C . W : Patterns

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : April 2016 & 5848

These two patterns, I'm going to compare are both comfy clothes which can be plain or as bright and quirky as anyone would like. While , the first (left) pattern is Prima's April 2016 culottes and (right is) Butterwick 5848 is a jumper/over top in two lengths, it could even been worn as a dress - they can both be worn as casual or even statement pieces for an outfit. I like the variety that could be involved with either pattern. 

These two patterns can be created with linen, silk and lace, surprisingly these are the most common fabrics that are comparable for the two patterns - lace is the only suggestion I'd likely consider. However silk would be amazing, but expensive. The culottes include suggestions for poly crepe and light weight wool. Some wool trousers lined would be nice and smart.
While cotton, cotton mix and jersey are options and mostly likely the options I'd pick for the jumper. These fabrics have a lot more pattern/colour options, I'd be interested in buying. I might not find it suits me after but I am trying to wear more of my makes, as I enjoy the fabrics and patterns. Combinations might not always work but this is considered before cutting any fabric, and if I want to make another I'll usually have a better idea what to do next. The chosen fabric  will greatly change the look and structure of any garment - silk will drape and flow more with ease than jersey, that's more weighty and wool will have even more body and depending on whats brought can be stiff and look more boxy for the culottes.

I'd likely make the culottes first - mainly as I am looking at sewing more trousers for myself and having fun with lace and wool as later attempts. Getting more confident with pockets and cuffing trousers. The butterwick 5848 jumper is not something I'd wear to enjoy but I can see the longer dress style could be fun, but I might not be investing the materials and time I'd need to make something I want.

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C . W : Patterns

G . O : Books

Getting On :

Books : Metric Pattern Cutting

Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting , 1991 (reprinted and extended) - Original 1976.

This pattern cutting book was a staple at my university for fashion students, and we had 3 editions in the library. The contents are organised with students in mind - the acknowledgements show this, with the advice sought and the technical drawings are clear and easy to understand. The text explains any details clearly, and any references for differing details or options are all referenced well. Allowing any reader to find the page and compare the information and choices. Whether its referring to another basic block, the processes included or fit issues to address.

The editions we had available at university led me to look for any edition I could own for myself, because of my interest in fashion, while on my textiles design - weaving course. I got this edition as a lucky find while on a textiles/fashion trip to a old English home, which had a second hand book shop as an extension to the gifts shop. I  unfortunately can't remember the name of the place, but I do remember the purchase and how lucky I was to find the book. Let alone the first person to pick it up out of all the students. At the time I had found others online for 4/6 times the price, even well used. While this one though sun damaged on the spine, its pristine.

Reads - ' Metric pattern cutting has now been extended to
include a new section on computer pattern grading and
numerous blocks have been added to this edition.
Having become the recognised leader in its field, this book
 is written for  beginners and will be equally valuable to
students of fashion and design, clothing manufacturers
and the creative home dressmaker.

Anyone who wants to create patterns for original clothing
designs can follow the techniques directly from the simple
 diagrams and step-by-step instructions in this book. It also
shows how to combine the technique of good pattern
 cutting with the principles of design and so to create an
almost  limitless variety of styles.

Winifred Aldrich is an experienced designer and lecturer in
design and pattern cutting.' 

The blurb summarises the intentions of this book better than how I was trying to explain.  Each edition adds to the content and advice for those using the book at the time. Modernising and adapting as needed. Even the contents and the chapters change - in later editions this goes through sections of how clothes fit the body - body hugging - or adding information for newer materials and processes. The basics are always covered to help anyone who needs to go back to basics or just starting - with basic blocks, measurements and toiles.

I've included a select few pages I've kept marked for myself, since the month I brought this book, to show the brilliant instructions and technical drawings included. Books like these are so important to students and at home sewers to teach anyone what they might need. Further instruction or watching videos and going to classes may be needed, but having a reference that is clear and adaptable to aid in designing is amazing. I find it inspiring to go through books for sewing, and  needle-craft.
Flipping through pages remind me to try different sleeves and fits. Going out of my comfort zone a little to practice and build my skills.


I hope others find inspiration in the editions of this book, any similar books or in any way that works best for them.

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G . O : Books

C . W : Pattern

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : 1250 & 6433

Both of these patterns were brought while I was in Derby - but on separate visits to the market stall, about 2013-2015. This was one of my favourite stalls as they had a great collection of printed fabrics, patterns, and they often had swatches for pennies. Great for tests, mock up, illustrations, and research for sketchbooks. I really miss having these stalls to explore, but I do enjoy my local haberdasheries - but the best one is a quilting shop and knitting.

These two patterns are of two very different styles of dresses in the construction and structure of them. Simpliciity 1250 is a reprint of a structured bodice with a circular dress/skirt with a blouse - from the 1950s. It has a peplum trim with the suggestion to add lace and layering up over the bodice in elbow length and a short sleeve. This style really does appeal to me, however I often feel like strapless dresses make slip down on me. Making a dress like this for myself means I add as much construction I need and get the fit to the point I feel like the dress would't drop when going out for dinner - while dancing I think any strapless dress will need to be adjusted at some point. The fabrics would need to have some structure to them - tighter weaves to the fabric so more expensive cotton can be used - but satin and lace could make a very nice combination.

6433 from New Look Easy is a simple yet chic style for loose but flattering style dresses - I love the draped back. The option to do the back was my reason for buying this pattern as I don't often wear loose dresses - its been more recent I even have maxi dresses. I find them best for driving, hot days and doing my hobbies - sewing mostly. This style won't be the most flattering so I would go more towards a fun colour or print that I would relax in.  I might not get the fit I want on my hips and stomach but their are similar dresses which fit the bust and flow down the rest of the body. It will take some adjusting, same with making the back a bigger statement. I would always go maxi with a long sleeve I think.

I still want to try making both of these but I'd have to invest in making 1250 as I'd likely have an ideal in my head. But I have to take that ideal with a pinch of salt. I might not get the colour matches or perfect pattern. I might have to unpick the same few bits over and over.  6433 I would just need something with a good drape. A fun colour or print would be good but I'm more likely to be less picky. I feel like the silhouettes are very classic, however not the most flattering for everybody.

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C . W : Pattern

C . W : Pattern

Changing Wardrobes :

Pattern : Beach Cover ups Aug. 2013 and Kaftan Aug.2018

With summer coming, I thought it was a god idea to combine using my fabric stash and creating something for the beach and hotter weather. Since I have no big holiday plans for this year (especially with the stay home and self-isolation at the moment), but since I do have a wedding in Italy to plan for in the future. I'm being hopeful and keeping myself busy. If nothing else I can plan to do a winter/autumn visit to another hot tub and sit out there in the rain at daft hours of the night with a few good friends.


The beach cover up - left - comes with a pattern that shows obvious options to add contrasting trims and a lot less hemming than the kaftan. Lengthening should be easy. While the fit - for me - is probably not desirable the cut in the neckline would be really nice. This could be lined for comfort on windy days or a towel/fleece like fabric for drying. Making something more cosy. Or bias bound edges could be a method to lean towards if light weight/sheer fabrics would be preferred. It is suggested to use cotton or jersey. Linen might be another idea if you struggle to find certain prints or colours. (Below the beach cover up is on the right). I like that this style covers more of the arm and reduces some bulk from


The kaftan - right - gives me ideal lengths that might be preferred. Another suggested option is to add a trim or use the edges of the fabric. Fabric that are suitable include cotton, silk and linen. But with a cover up and skills could mean lace, sheer fabrics, printed panels and scrap fabric panels or quilts that are made or brought. While this gives a lot of options for colours, combinations and patterns, the width and depth of fabric available might limit some options depending on the size wanted.
For this style, a lot hemming will be involved in this style and also, if wanted, lining. A lot of fabric would be used and be worn on the body.
I would personally go for a a single layer fabric, bias bind the edges - contrasting or similar - at the shorter length. Hem the sides and neck. Turning the bottom edge and applying a trim to it. Lace has been a favourite addition to my projects lately. Often I try to colour match a trim to something in my patterned fabric. Adding a tie at the waist would help me find my preferred fit, when wearing the cover. I'd still have the option to wear it as loose as I'd like.

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C . W : Pattern

C . W : Dress Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Structured Dress Patterns : 5827 Versus 5853

Both of these patterns were brought while I was in Derby - but on separate visits to the market stall, about 2013-2015. This was one of my favourite stalls as they had a great collection of printed fabrics, patterns, and they often had swatches for pennies. Great for tests, mock up, illustrations, and research for sketchbooks. 

These two Butterwick patterns are of two very different styles of dresses in the construction and structure of them. 

The left pattern 5827 appears to be very simple with the option for contrasting fabrics and high keyhole opening. While its my favourite of the two the High neck and yoke  means this dress wouldn't be the most flattering for me. The length and fit with the dress could be very adaptable if you keep a lot of shape in the bodice. Depending on the intended outcome it would need to still look somewhat simple and modern still.

5853, on the right, is the pattern that would suit me better. A sweetheart neckline and defined waist  are much more flattering for me. I'd also feel more comfortable with picking more vibrant and patterned fabrics. While the bodice and skirt have more parts for the construction, as well as a sheer/stretch net neckline - I have sewn with more slippery blouse suitable fabrics. I feel  much more confident and don't feel this would stop me from creating something flattering and on a slightly higher difficulty level.

While I was a university student at the time of buying these two and its now that I'm more able to sew this style of dress with confidence and definitely needed - more space. I'd likely want to use my mint green sheer fabric (Leeds market stall) and use my white lace (brought from charity shop) for the body. The fabric for both would preferably be something with some body and structure to it, both could be made without a lining with fabrics that sit on the middle weight. However, you'd need to consider bias binding the edges, since no lining means the edges will need a tidy finish.

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C . W : Dress Patterns

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : M6465 & 6868

I brought two patterns a while back, both suitable for every day wear and some work occasions. I brought these two together. I think the smarter design from New Look - probably, my favourite from the two. I like the smarter look and style of it. But like everyone I love to be comfortable

Also, I know this style will suit me more than the McCall's pattern, which would be more comfortable in general which a more relaxed style.

The McCall's pattern could give me more options to play with when picking out fabrics and designs.

I will have to explore my stash and see what I have in there! I'm really excited to try half sleeves that just cover the shoulder. This would give my arms more room for movement. I love the idea of the pleated  neckline for A, and pockets on the dress! However I have a skater dress with princess seams, that I have to finish themselves.

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C . W : Patterns

Pattern

Another Simplicity pattern

A simple dress with some variations, with a short bodice of an A-line dress and a long skirt. With variations on neckline, collar and sleeves. It's 6-16 so I've got so much room to play with the design, if I want to stray from the elegant dress.

Though a high a-line/empire line is not always the most flattering on me, a simple dress like this is a basic and having a long dress in my collection would be helpful, especially in this skirt shape. A V-neck often does flatter me, however, and having the sensible options for a collar and/or sleeves is nice to have.


I'm interested in what fabrics I'll use for a dress like this. Though I don't see myself using a patterned fabric - like a mad floral or anything too abstract or mad with colours. I might surprise myself though.

I think I'll use a bound edge like the one below A (option D), without sleeves. Though I might try to add a slit, after my first attempt. I'll definitely have some fun with this dress pattern.

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Pattern

Pattern

A Simplicity Pattern 

A basic pattern of a vest top, and jacket with some variations.

This pattern from simplicity is not very exciting, but honestly its a basic piece to add to my collection.I can work with clothing pieces and make my own patterns from some basic pieces, but having something to show me the basic techniques and form help me from making some mistakes or bad choices.

When I brought this pattern I had to think hard if I even wanted it, but I didn't need a another basic dress or anything else that was similar to what I already had.This pattern has made me think of what patterns and fabrics I could use to make anything I make that little bit more special, and a step up from the basic piece it could be.

When I have a fabric in mind - I'll remember to share it, I hope you'll give me some feedback. Tell me if I'm going a little to mad with patterns or lace.

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Pattern

Pattern!

My pattern stash!


 This is a asymmetric pattern for a dress - sizes 14 up to 22 from Butterick.
I brought it from my local market which had fabric and the ends bin. Not much else. There were several others that did. I did like this stall best to look at the fabrics, all the patterns and variety they stocked was bigger. Despite the stall being one of the smallest.

It sold patterns, ends of fabrics and also little 5p samples. Great for research and scrap booking but too small for anything else.

I've kept this pattern over the summer, along with a few others- the rest are sitting with my sister who actually has a sewing room. Even if she has no time to work on such projects.

What I love about this pattern is the options I have with mixing fabrics, prints, the splits and shaping. Once made at least just the once - I could probably play with the construction and shape of the dress.


What else could be made? Costumes or dress up? What would you guys suggest? What would you make?

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Pattern!

New Pattern to do!

                       I have a new pattern to do! Exciting!

I picked this up second hand, not from the magazine. This wasn't a freebie for me but a little donation from a bookstall, to a beautiful building isn't much trouble. The architecture of an old train station turned into a social hub with cinema and cafes, and galleries is wonderful when there's no use for such an old building.

Anyway back to the pattern. I choose this out of all the other vintage ones - because its more wearable for me - as a I am curvy woman. It has boning in the sweet heart neckline, a train, and a jacket for full lace.
The silhouette isn't one I have had before, though I do have a sweet heart neckline in a skater dress - but it doesn't have any boning, it uses netting to hold up the dress.

I thought very quickly in how I can use this pattern to alter other - e.g. sweet heart neckline, boning, a train - which I can use to create a nicely rounded up and down hem.

The skater dress is one I first thought of editing, then this pattern I think I could make something really lovely. Something unique for me.

I could use this dress for all kinds of occasions - especially dressing up for a big do, I could use it to go to weddings, though I won't use it for my own -  I think I would be too obsessed with getting it perfect! So I wouldn't enjoy it as much.

I really want to try the lace jacket but it's likely the last thing I'll ever make - it's not something I would wear very often. A bit of a shame.

* I wish I had brought a hat - navy blue, small top, with a wide, titled rim. It leans forward to show off the back - under the rim the hat continues to show off blue roses. It's stunning.

I can imagine that hat. and this dress made up with a bodice of black duchess satin (quite heavy and thick, with a thinner lining) and a white/cream/blue skirt. Maybe with blue stitching, that few people would probably notice.

Perhaps, I'll get doodling soon to share some ideas with you guys? I'd love to get some options.

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New Pattern to do!

C.W : Princess Bubblegum

My work space, whilst working - not as big I thought.

I took four to six days worth of my time for a friend. This was to make a dress for a costume party. She asked for princess bubble from adventure time. She really wanted to do this character, she looked at costumes to buy bit at silly prices for a basic dress. The crown alone was £20+ easy. Costumes adult or child are difficult to find. Even any cosplay versions are easily £40+.

After researching the character design, to see want I would make, even though we were sure of the basic dress she often wears was what we wanted - as bubblegum does have a collection of costumes - I took the friend shopping for the fabric. She picked the colours that she thought best for her ideas of the princess bubblegum. She wanted a shine light pink and a strong bold purple. We ended up also shopping for glitter and make up. Neither of use went for pale makeup despite our characters being very pale. The entire process wasn't photographed in full, so apologies to anyone interested in seeing that. I only have photos of the work space and the nearly finished dress and the completed dress.

I started with a pattern with the length wanted - in the bodice and skirt. however this was a fitted dress with panels, and a yoke with/without sleeves. So, I adapted the sleeve pattern and bodice pattern to be how I want it to be shaped. Partially based on the sequined dress in the photo above, which had a higher neckline, but wasn't right up to the neck - this was a night out costume party, meaning it could be very warm. Though the bodice pattern took time to make it, it also came together quickly. The waist was just right but the bust was a little large but again with this being for a night out it was preferable to be slightly loose.

For the skirt and sleeves we wanted extra material to gather so I used the size 16 from the pattern rather than the size 10, but when these pieces were compared to the size 10 this creates the amount I need to gather. The bodice pattern I made had the size 10 and dress measurements to base the sizing of the bodice on.
I also edited the sleeve pattern for more height in the arch to allow for more material to gather and also allow for more height in the gathering if needed for the space to create a puffy princess sleeve. On top of the size 16 pattern piece I also extended the sleeve as normal for a gathered sleeve.

I put together the bodice and skirts first, which allowed me work out sizing and measurements against the dress and my friend with the paper patterns. These seemed about right and allowed me to return the dress - as I had written down the measurements, to refer to later.

The next job was the sleeves and collar. Planning the zip placement - which I changed to the back of the dress. The waist band was final piece to be planned. I had a zip, elastic and interfacing, so my friend didn't have to worry about these pieces when we were shopping.

The bodice and skirt were the first pieces to be sewn, this includes a front bodice lining to avoid the light pink showing anything worn underneath. I also stitched to the point where the zip's length would end on the edges of the skirt. Once the skirt and bodice were sewing together. I next gathered, sewn the edge, hemmed the edge of the sleeve, sewn in the elastic and added the sleeves to the bodice.
The zip's placement had to be planned, before I could continue. However I had to back off from sewing it till I had the waist band ready - pattern piece cut, stitched, turned out, added interfacing and stitched the interfacing into position. Then it was ready to sew onto the dress, then I could add the zip, and finish that area of the bodice and skirt.
Finally the last piece was made, interfaced and added - the collar. This was quite fiddly due to the stitching and ironing, and repeated the process so it sat the right way - you must do the interfacing, then the whole collar the wrong way, then the right way and then add to the dress the wrong way before finally doing it the right way so it sits the right way, and neatly on the dress. Confusing but anyone out there having trouble there are YouTube videos out there - this wasn't meant as a tutorial on making a dress, else I would have explained the processes more clearly.

Finally the finishing was all that was left - this usually includes the hemming, the zip and so on.

I really enjoyed making this dress and would like to say its my full first dress - despite creating one in college, which I did do by myself. But it was a themed project and though wearable not designed with a wearer in mind - it was based on bacteria. I was really happy to have a project for a week and that a friend trusted me to make this and even more so to shop with her to select the fabrics.

Anyway thank you for reading x

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C.W : Princess Bubblegum

G.O&C.W : Patterns (pictures later)

I have a onsie, a hood, , dress patterns, bags, and a shirt patterns.

I think I'll try cutting a dress pattern next to have a closer look at them. I want something fresh and suitable for autumn as well as summer, in case there's o time for anything else, before the next terms holiday.

Lately I have been making bottle cap pin cushions with stuffing and felt I had around.. Combined with embroidery, there is a lot of styles I can make.

Unlike the clothes I want to make, these pin cushions will go on my etsy and facebook pages.

And whilst I'm on Clothing trends for the summer I've found black and white is a trend, with a clashing trend of neon colours, with fewer patterned pieces this year, yet a lot colour blocking.

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G.O&C.W : Patterns (pictures later)

C.W : The Onsie

Listed on my Facebook account, a friend and customer. He has made his own onsie before (a Pikachu), but he has had no time this time round, having work and studies to do.

I have made a toadadile onsie for him to go to a Pokémon-themed party.

The body and tail turned out great, but I made a hood/hat that looked a little scary to me. It wasn't meant to be, I will be making more hats with some luck very shortly. Animal themed, rather than Pokémon.

I will be making a block from the pattern he lent me, he doesn't like the pattern paper. So I'll be making a copy in card that he would prefer, and it would make it easier for him to use.

So all that is left - is to use all the spare fleece.

Oh I'm looking forward to a new project

Share any ideas x

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C.W : The Onsie