C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : 8127 Versus 5751

I have a desire or need to collect patterns for dresses above all other types of clothing. Dresses are my favourite to buy, to look through and what I also tend to sew. Both of these patterns have similar silhouettes, but achieved differently. Namely the number of panels and the pleating of Butterwick's 5751 pattern on the right. Which I think is my favourite of these two. I can see some great options for colour blocking and pairing fabrics. Then I see more adaptability in this pattern, as well -  increasing the bottom width of panels for volume, pleating them to hid more colour, piecing fabric together for the pleats and draping more (though for the volume, an underskirt would be needed). I love the rounded neckline and straps/cap sleeve. I feel these would be more flattering my figure. I also feel I can control the fit more over my waist and stomach - opening the pleats/panels  where it feels best for me. Rather than having  a fuller skirt down from the waist.


While Simplicity's 8127 is posed as a costume pattern for Lolita and Rockabilly. The designs pictured are very eye catching and what drew me to purchase this pattern in the first place. I love Lolita and the shape of these dresses. Though I do not own any Lolita dresses and outfits, nor have I had the chance to sew them just yet. I know the silhouette is flattering but I am picky about patterns for such dresses. Patterns lend themselves so much to the character of such dresses and I would want to be happy with the result, though this idea might be led by the cover image. So time will tell if I ever find a good fabric for my first try. Partially I think the pattern's cover stops me from being creative with the dress I want to make, putting it behind 5751. Imagination is a lot when it comes to being inspired and interesting in sewing a project for me. I do feel like the shape overall would be flattering, but for best results, an underskirt and some adaptions.

In the end, I'm happy to own both patterns, I even feel I could swap some features between the two once I'm better acquainted with the patterns. I just feel 8127 is more of a costume, while I can picture 5751 as a day dress or dressed up or a fun combination of coloured fabrics. Speaking of which I'd probably buy cotton, gingham, broadcloth or linen - so if I found a stunning patterned fabric I'd probably match it to the style I think would suit it best.

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C . W : Patterns

G . O : Books

Getting On :

Books : Metric Pattern Cutting

Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting , 1991 (reprinted and extended) - Original 1976.

This pattern cutting book was a staple at my university for fashion students, and we had 3 editions in the library. The contents are organised with students in mind - the acknowledgements show this, with the advice sought and the technical drawings are clear and easy to understand. The text explains any details clearly, and any references for differing details or options are all referenced well. Allowing any reader to find the page and compare the information and choices. Whether its referring to another basic block, the processes included or fit issues to address.

The editions we had available at university led me to look for any edition I could own for myself, because of my interest in fashion, while on my textiles design - weaving course. I got this edition as a lucky find while on a textiles/fashion trip to a old English home, which had a second hand book shop as an extension to the gifts shop. I  unfortunately can't remember the name of the place, but I do remember the purchase and how lucky I was to find the book. Let alone the first person to pick it up out of all the students. At the time I had found others online for 4/6 times the price, even well used. While this one though sun damaged on the spine, its pristine.

Reads - ' Metric pattern cutting has now been extended to
include a new section on computer pattern grading and
numerous blocks have been added to this edition.
Having become the recognised leader in its field, this book
 is written for  beginners and will be equally valuable to
students of fashion and design, clothing manufacturers
and the creative home dressmaker.

Anyone who wants to create patterns for original clothing
designs can follow the techniques directly from the simple
 diagrams and step-by-step instructions in this book. It also
shows how to combine the technique of good pattern
 cutting with the principles of design and so to create an
almost  limitless variety of styles.

Winifred Aldrich is an experienced designer and lecturer in
design and pattern cutting.' 

The blurb summarises the intentions of this book better than how I was trying to explain.  Each edition adds to the content and advice for those using the book at the time. Modernising and adapting as needed. Even the contents and the chapters change - in later editions this goes through sections of how clothes fit the body - body hugging - or adding information for newer materials and processes. The basics are always covered to help anyone who needs to go back to basics or just starting - with basic blocks, measurements and toiles.

I've included a select few pages I've kept marked for myself, since the month I brought this book, to show the brilliant instructions and technical drawings included. Books like these are so important to students and at home sewers to teach anyone what they might need. Further instruction or watching videos and going to classes may be needed, but having a reference that is clear and adaptable to aid in designing is amazing. I find it inspiring to go through books for sewing, and  needle-craft.
Flipping through pages remind me to try different sleeves and fits. Going out of my comfort zone a little to practice and build my skills.


I hope others find inspiration in the editions of this book, any similar books or in any way that works best for them.

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G . O : Books

C . W : Pattern

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : 1250 & 6433

Both of these patterns were brought while I was in Derby - but on separate visits to the market stall, about 2013-2015. This was one of my favourite stalls as they had a great collection of printed fabrics, patterns, and they often had swatches for pennies. Great for tests, mock up, illustrations, and research for sketchbooks. I really miss having these stalls to explore, but I do enjoy my local haberdasheries - but the best one is a quilting shop and knitting.

These two patterns are of two very different styles of dresses in the construction and structure of them. Simpliciity 1250 is a reprint of a structured bodice with a circular dress/skirt with a blouse - from the 1950s. It has a peplum trim with the suggestion to add lace and layering up over the bodice in elbow length and a short sleeve. This style really does appeal to me, however I often feel like strapless dresses make slip down on me. Making a dress like this for myself means I add as much construction I need and get the fit to the point I feel like the dress would't drop when going out for dinner - while dancing I think any strapless dress will need to be adjusted at some point. The fabrics would need to have some structure to them - tighter weaves to the fabric so more expensive cotton can be used - but satin and lace could make a very nice combination.

6433 from New Look Easy is a simple yet chic style for loose but flattering style dresses - I love the draped back. The option to do the back was my reason for buying this pattern as I don't often wear loose dresses - its been more recent I even have maxi dresses. I find them best for driving, hot days and doing my hobbies - sewing mostly. This style won't be the most flattering so I would go more towards a fun colour or print that I would relax in.  I might not get the fit I want on my hips and stomach but their are similar dresses which fit the bust and flow down the rest of the body. It will take some adjusting, same with making the back a bigger statement. I would always go maxi with a long sleeve I think.

I still want to try making both of these but I'd have to invest in making 1250 as I'd likely have an ideal in my head. But I have to take that ideal with a pinch of salt. I might not get the colour matches or perfect pattern. I might have to unpick the same few bits over and over.  6433 I would just need something with a good drape. A fun colour or print would be good but I'm more likely to be less picky. I feel like the silhouettes are very classic, however not the most flattering for everybody.

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C . W : Pattern

C . W : Pattern

Changing Wardrobes :

Pattern : Beach Cover ups Aug. 2013 and Kaftan Aug.2018

With summer coming, I thought it was a god idea to combine using my fabric stash and creating something for the beach and hotter weather. Since I have no big holiday plans for this year (especially with the stay home and self-isolation at the moment), but since I do have a wedding in Italy to plan for in the future. I'm being hopeful and keeping myself busy. If nothing else I can plan to do a winter/autumn visit to another hot tub and sit out there in the rain at daft hours of the night with a few good friends.


The beach cover up - left - comes with a pattern that shows obvious options to add contrasting trims and a lot less hemming than the kaftan. Lengthening should be easy. While the fit - for me - is probably not desirable the cut in the neckline would be really nice. This could be lined for comfort on windy days or a towel/fleece like fabric for drying. Making something more cosy. Or bias bound edges could be a method to lean towards if light weight/sheer fabrics would be preferred. It is suggested to use cotton or jersey. Linen might be another idea if you struggle to find certain prints or colours. (Below the beach cover up is on the right). I like that this style covers more of the arm and reduces some bulk from


The kaftan - right - gives me ideal lengths that might be preferred. Another suggested option is to add a trim or use the edges of the fabric. Fabric that are suitable include cotton, silk and linen. But with a cover up and skills could mean lace, sheer fabrics, printed panels and scrap fabric panels or quilts that are made or brought. While this gives a lot of options for colours, combinations and patterns, the width and depth of fabric available might limit some options depending on the size wanted.
For this style, a lot hemming will be involved in this style and also, if wanted, lining. A lot of fabric would be used and be worn on the body.
I would personally go for a a single layer fabric, bias bind the edges - contrasting or similar - at the shorter length. Hem the sides and neck. Turning the bottom edge and applying a trim to it. Lace has been a favourite addition to my projects lately. Often I try to colour match a trim to something in my patterned fabric. Adding a tie at the waist would help me find my preferred fit, when wearing the cover. I'd still have the option to wear it as loose as I'd like.

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C . W : Pattern

C . W : Dress Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Structured Dress Patterns : 5827 Versus 5853

Both of these patterns were brought while I was in Derby - but on separate visits to the market stall, about 2013-2015. This was one of my favourite stalls as they had a great collection of printed fabrics, patterns, and they often had swatches for pennies. Great for tests, mock up, illustrations, and research for sketchbooks. 

These two Butterwick patterns are of two very different styles of dresses in the construction and structure of them. 

The left pattern 5827 appears to be very simple with the option for contrasting fabrics and high keyhole opening. While its my favourite of the two the High neck and yoke  means this dress wouldn't be the most flattering for me. The length and fit with the dress could be very adaptable if you keep a lot of shape in the bodice. Depending on the intended outcome it would need to still look somewhat simple and modern still.

5853, on the right, is the pattern that would suit me better. A sweetheart neckline and defined waist  are much more flattering for me. I'd also feel more comfortable with picking more vibrant and patterned fabrics. While the bodice and skirt have more parts for the construction, as well as a sheer/stretch net neckline - I have sewn with more slippery blouse suitable fabrics. I feel  much more confident and don't feel this would stop me from creating something flattering and on a slightly higher difficulty level.

While I was a university student at the time of buying these two and its now that I'm more able to sew this style of dress with confidence and definitely needed - more space. I'd likely want to use my mint green sheer fabric (Leeds market stall) and use my white lace (brought from charity shop) for the body. The fabric for both would preferably be something with some body and structure to it, both could be made without a lining with fabrics that sit on the middle weight. However, you'd need to consider bias binding the edges, since no lining means the edges will need a tidy finish.

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C . W : Dress Patterns