C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns :  The Charlie Shirt Dress & Dec 2016

Threaders The Charlie Shirt Dress & Prima Dec 2016

Dresses, my largest section in my pattern collection. These two dresses are very different in styles and presentation but I'd happily wear either style for causal or a little dressy for an evening out. Threader's - The charlie shirt dress, on the left, has different lengths and sleeve options to change the look. A more casual style in general for a day /utility dress for function, but many shirt dresses have been worn and dressed up for an evening out. Even if the trend to do so can be a little dated, colour blocking, fine/patterned fabrics and accessories alongside comfort still keep them about.
On the right, the Prima's December 2016 dress has a simple silhouette and a more dressed up feel inherently - largely from the peak-a-boo shoulder with long sleeve. Maxi dresses might be worn more causally but there's a boho style to them. This shift style goes for more a simple chic look.

The fabrics suggested for these two dresses are very different. Threader's shirt dress suggests the cotton, linen,  poplin and medium weight woven fabrics, very common for this style of dress. Pattern will create most of the variety. Buttons could be contrasting to complimentary as well. If confident with collars and necklines, a sewer could experiment with different changes and styles.
Silk crepe de china, polyester crepe, fine wool crepe are so different but perfect for the silhouette of the DEC. 2016 pattern, it will give the dress the body and flow for the dress. As these fabrics will sit relaxed on the body, allowing for the shift style dress, rather than hugging the body. I think the longer length will allow any chosen fabrics to really shine and might lend itself to a more casual look for a summer maxi to dress up. A short dress with long sleeves may be very understated depending on the fabric, but more difficult to wear everyday.

My preference my both these patterns would be the longer version. The shirt dress I'd likely do the vest style or cap sleeve. I can see myself sewing both these in a block colour first and foremost, but I'd most likely want a pattern for the shirt dress and a lovely texture to Dec. 2016. As for which I'd pick up to sew first would be depending on plans in the future or how busy I've been.  I've sewn a few maxi dresses from scratch, so I don't need more casual dresses - but I also have no where to go. The summers best weather will be passed me  soon so Dec.2016 most likely won't be sewn this year, unless Christmas has any big parties for me.

I'll have to go with the shirt dress, utility and wear-ability will likely win out, alongside the need to practice buttons and button holes. I could also make false button stands if I have too much trouble or feel like the button stand needs any reinforcement.

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C . W : Patterns

C.W : Princess Bubblegum

My work space, whilst working - not as big I thought.

I took four to six days worth of my time for a friend. This was to make a dress for a costume party. She asked for princess bubble from adventure time. She really wanted to do this character, she looked at costumes to buy bit at silly prices for a basic dress. The crown alone was £20+ easy. Costumes adult or child are difficult to find. Even any cosplay versions are easily £40+.

After researching the character design, to see want I would make, even though we were sure of the basic dress she often wears was what we wanted - as bubblegum does have a collection of costumes - I took the friend shopping for the fabric. She picked the colours that she thought best for her ideas of the princess bubblegum. She wanted a shine light pink and a strong bold purple. We ended up also shopping for glitter and make up. Neither of use went for pale makeup despite our characters being very pale. The entire process wasn't photographed in full, so apologies to anyone interested in seeing that. I only have photos of the work space and the nearly finished dress and the completed dress.

I started with a pattern with the length wanted - in the bodice and skirt. however this was a fitted dress with panels, and a yoke with/without sleeves. So, I adapted the sleeve pattern and bodice pattern to be how I want it to be shaped. Partially based on the sequined dress in the photo above, which had a higher neckline, but wasn't right up to the neck - this was a night out costume party, meaning it could be very warm. Though the bodice pattern took time to make it, it also came together quickly. The waist was just right but the bust was a little large but again with this being for a night out it was preferable to be slightly loose.

For the skirt and sleeves we wanted extra material to gather so I used the size 16 from the pattern rather than the size 10, but when these pieces were compared to the size 10 this creates the amount I need to gather. The bodice pattern I made had the size 10 and dress measurements to base the sizing of the bodice on.
I also edited the sleeve pattern for more height in the arch to allow for more material to gather and also allow for more height in the gathering if needed for the space to create a puffy princess sleeve. On top of the size 16 pattern piece I also extended the sleeve as normal for a gathered sleeve.

I put together the bodice and skirts first, which allowed me work out sizing and measurements against the dress and my friend with the paper patterns. These seemed about right and allowed me to return the dress - as I had written down the measurements, to refer to later.

The next job was the sleeves and collar. Planning the zip placement - which I changed to the back of the dress. The waist band was final piece to be planned. I had a zip, elastic and interfacing, so my friend didn't have to worry about these pieces when we were shopping.

The bodice and skirt were the first pieces to be sewn, this includes a front bodice lining to avoid the light pink showing anything worn underneath. I also stitched to the point where the zip's length would end on the edges of the skirt. Once the skirt and bodice were sewing together. I next gathered, sewn the edge, hemmed the edge of the sleeve, sewn in the elastic and added the sleeves to the bodice.
The zip's placement had to be planned, before I could continue. However I had to back off from sewing it till I had the waist band ready - pattern piece cut, stitched, turned out, added interfacing and stitched the interfacing into position. Then it was ready to sew onto the dress, then I could add the zip, and finish that area of the bodice and skirt.
Finally the last piece was made, interfaced and added - the collar. This was quite fiddly due to the stitching and ironing, and repeated the process so it sat the right way - you must do the interfacing, then the whole collar the wrong way, then the right way and then add to the dress the wrong way before finally doing it the right way so it sits the right way, and neatly on the dress. Confusing but anyone out there having trouble there are YouTube videos out there - this wasn't meant as a tutorial on making a dress, else I would have explained the processes more clearly.

Finally the finishing was all that was left - this usually includes the hemming, the zip and so on.

I really enjoyed making this dress and would like to say its my full first dress - despite creating one in college, which I did do by myself. But it was a themed project and though wearable not designed with a wearer in mind - it was based on bacteria. I was really happy to have a project for a week and that a friend trusted me to make this and even more so to shop with her to select the fabrics.

Anyway thank you for reading x

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C.W : Princess Bubblegum