C . W : Patterns

 

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : Prima Oct. 2019 &Vogue Basic Design 1534

This time I am looking at different styles for loose dresses. The prima pattern - Oct.2019, on the left, has a empire line fitted round the bust, 3/4 or gathered 1/4 length sleeves. The skirt of the dress flows from there, seamed down the front, another option is there for having a slit in the front from about knee height. A casual dress, with a vintage vibe, especially in floral fabrics. Cottons, linens, crepe and any silk/silk like will make a lovely fabric choice. I can see this in some abstract florals for a fun twist. Making a comfy dress, you can adapt the fit  to your body and be able to make a fairly simple dress in some nice fabrics or combinations. I can see some going for a faux vintage vibe with  decorative buttons and loops on the front up the seam, to the split.

On the right, I have an old pattern brought second hand in a charity shop (uncut last time I checked), with Vogue's Basic 1534 boxy dress pattern. A lot of variations are included in this pattern alongside the main body - a boxy top with a wide and shallow boat neckline, a key hole at the back of the neck, gathered at an elasticated waist, with a loose skirt. The options include; sleeveless, elbow length sleeves, and full length cuffed sleeve, a neck tie with a wide peter pan style, a split square/pilgrim collar, 2 skirt lengths and finally a contrast band in the skirt if preferred. This pattern would be loose and comfortable some details are very dated and not often worn anymore, including the silhouette. I like to have some boxy fits from the bust with the short skirt, I'd like keep a plain/contrast neckline or have the peter pan and tie style. Split the sleeves under the arm and have them as a capelet style. From there I'd have the try the fit to make bigger changes. One addition to think of is lengthening the parts of the front of the bodice  to exaggerate the boxy look/as if it was tucked in. The skirt can be shortened or length added, as well, to suit.

I would most likely make the Prima Oct.2019 pattern in cotton with puff sleeves and remake in a crepe or more fun print. However, I would love to see the Vogue pattern made and worn, but the dated style makes it difficult to wear when its not in my preferred style from the past.  I would modernise it where possible, and with my body the fit would not be as flattering. Only a style for comfort in my case. I would have to see how this adapts to any changes I make before this changes in my mind.

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C . W : Patterns

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : Aug 2014 & May 2015

Both of these patterns were given to me - both are separates to a make a whole outfit. May 2015 Prima Pattern on the left, makes up a squared necked dress and fitted jacket. White Aug. 2014 Prima pattern makes up a top and skirt pairing. Both patterns allow for matching sets or mixing fabrics or patterns.

These two patterns are of two very different styles of necklines and though the dress and top have similar dart placements - they can be fitted to be more boxy/loose, as the dress is photographed or more fitted as the top. It would also be possible to swap the necklines between them - as long as any sewer is aware of the changes it it bring. For my style - last year I would have likely sewn the dress - I try to wear less trousers when I'm out of work and its even a little warm. Make it out of floral cotton or a glittered black fabric with a heavier cotton. Lowering the neckline a by 2-4 cm. 

However, I would lean towards the jacket from May 2015 Pattern and the skirt from the Aug. 2014 pattern. Making them in matching small print. OR a floral skirt and soft great jacket. I'd do this to have more jackets that would fit me well and I enjoy sewing skirts a lot after making many sun dresses at the beginning of lockdown. The skirt would pair well with a lot more tops I own.  

The jacket - if care is taken- could even be made it cotton with sheer panels or lacey effects. Making a very unique piece.

The top is could become boxy and short on my body - due to my bust. I can make several adjusts to help the fit - however if I made the top and it wasn't a perfect fit I wouldn't wear it even with a matching skirt. Or amazing fabric I loved.

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C . W : Patterns

G . O : Patterns

  

Getting On :

Patterns : Feb 2015 & Sept 2015

Both of these patterns were gifts, passed to me from readers of Prima, I have the coat pattern from February 2015 & the dress pattern from September 2015. I like Prima patterns for their size range - and I usually collect patterns like this, as while I can grade sizes for a decent part. I like to trace a size I need and keep these paper, with any adjustments I make. While, there is no direct comparison here, I still plan to layout which I'm more likely to sew. I paired these two for comfortable autumn/winter wear, with the length options to make things more comfortable for different weathers and temperatures.

Prima Feb. 2015, on the left, is a trench coat style, with a wide collar and tie with a structure to the fit of the coat. It's suggested to sew in wool or wool mix. If you wanted I imagine a cotton mix treated for weather and water proofing would also be a great mix. This would likely need a more fitted look, facings and linings. Coats are something I need to try and practice more - I've sewn with wool and mostly enjoyed it. Just had to remember to keep up with hovering the space. I don't currently have a coat fitted like this - but I have some in a hoodie style, one for dresses and others are loose/not so fitted. I tend to not favour a large collar. This can be trimmed back with wool once made or use snap backs/buttons or stitches to pin them out the way. Or if more preferable close, closer to the neck. Wool and wool mixes comes in a lot more patterns and textures than ever. Examples could be a basic and classic beige camel, tartan, and block colours or tones. More modern twists mean a coat could be made with an Ombre fabric with metallic or dyed half/edge. The result could result in a classic and well used/fitted wardrobe addition or a striking unique piece for an event or specific outfit. I'd love a bright red, but as I have such a coat - I'd likely go for camel or a red tartan.

Prima Sept. 2015, on the right, is a loose draped dress with a pair of darts in the back. A gathered front around the neckline. There are two lengths of dress and sleeves. There are two As you can imagine, looking at a a pattern like this - it requires fabric that drapes well, with options in jersey, polyester, silk, and viscose. Some mixes would do well, if they don't have a body that makes the fabric too stiff. A dress in this style or similar can usually be brought or made in jersey, throughout the year. This pattern would be great for trying different fabrics - to learn how to treat them and the differences it makes in the end result. With such a staple dress you can't go too wrong with print, colour or fabrics. For myself I'd love to see an emerald green silk or jersey. I don't have enough dresses in either fabric, and while I love green I don't find the shades I like. Paired with the coat in camel I'd be warm enough with either result. 

In the end, both patterns are great and as I started out - I think these make a great pairing and would love to see these both made. Both patterns can make a potential staple for a wardrobe, but for myself I'd start with the coat. I don't buy many and wool is still an investment to me when I sew. I'd buy a coating fabric I'm in love with and work hard at this. Whether I go for something unique with colours, materials or thread choice, or a staple designed to fit me perfectly I've been waiting for. I also know I'll learn a lot more about a different style and construction by sewing this. I don't often have side panels and always want to practice sleeves, even if I don't add a lining to them (would help with a longer life and itching for sensitive skin). I still want to see the result of an Ombre fabric, as much I don't see myself wearing it. 

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G . O : Patterns

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns :  The Charlie Shirt Dress & Dec 2016

Threaders The Charlie Shirt Dress & Prima Dec 2016

Dresses, my largest section in my pattern collection. These two dresses are very different in styles and presentation but I'd happily wear either style for causal or a little dressy for an evening out. Threader's - The charlie shirt dress, on the left, has different lengths and sleeve options to change the look. A more casual style in general for a day /utility dress for function, but many shirt dresses have been worn and dressed up for an evening out. Even if the trend to do so can be a little dated, colour blocking, fine/patterned fabrics and accessories alongside comfort still keep them about.
On the right, the Prima's December 2016 dress has a simple silhouette and a more dressed up feel inherently - largely from the peak-a-boo shoulder with long sleeve. Maxi dresses might be worn more causally but there's a boho style to them. This shift style goes for more a simple chic look.

The fabrics suggested for these two dresses are very different. Threader's shirt dress suggests the cotton, linen,  poplin and medium weight woven fabrics, very common for this style of dress. Pattern will create most of the variety. Buttons could be contrasting to complimentary as well. If confident with collars and necklines, a sewer could experiment with different changes and styles.
Silk crepe de china, polyester crepe, fine wool crepe are so different but perfect for the silhouette of the DEC. 2016 pattern, it will give the dress the body and flow for the dress. As these fabrics will sit relaxed on the body, allowing for the shift style dress, rather than hugging the body. I think the longer length will allow any chosen fabrics to really shine and might lend itself to a more casual look for a summer maxi to dress up. A short dress with long sleeves may be very understated depending on the fabric, but more difficult to wear everyday.

My preference my both these patterns would be the longer version. The shirt dress I'd likely do the vest style or cap sleeve. I can see myself sewing both these in a block colour first and foremost, but I'd most likely want a pattern for the shirt dress and a lovely texture to Dec. 2016. As for which I'd pick up to sew first would be depending on plans in the future or how busy I've been.  I've sewn a few maxi dresses from scratch, so I don't need more casual dresses - but I also have no where to go. The summers best weather will be passed me  soon so Dec.2016 most likely won't be sewn this year, unless Christmas has any big parties for me.

I'll have to go with the shirt dress, utility and wear-ability will likely win out, alongside the need to practice buttons and button holes. I could also make false button stands if I have too much trouble or feel like the button stand needs any reinforcement.

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C . W : Patterns

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : April 2016 & 5848

These two patterns, I'm going to compare are both comfy clothes which can be plain or as bright and quirky as anyone would like. While , the first (left) pattern is Prima's April 2016 culottes and (right is) Butterwick 5848 is a jumper/over top in two lengths, it could even been worn as a dress - they can both be worn as casual or even statement pieces for an outfit. I like the variety that could be involved with either pattern. 

These two patterns can be created with linen, silk and lace, surprisingly these are the most common fabrics that are comparable for the two patterns - lace is the only suggestion I'd likely consider. However silk would be amazing, but expensive. The culottes include suggestions for poly crepe and light weight wool. Some wool trousers lined would be nice and smart.
While cotton, cotton mix and jersey are options and mostly likely the options I'd pick for the jumper. These fabrics have a lot more pattern/colour options, I'd be interested in buying. I might not find it suits me after but I am trying to wear more of my makes, as I enjoy the fabrics and patterns. Combinations might not always work but this is considered before cutting any fabric, and if I want to make another I'll usually have a better idea what to do next. The chosen fabric  will greatly change the look and structure of any garment - silk will drape and flow more with ease than jersey, that's more weighty and wool will have even more body and depending on whats brought can be stiff and look more boxy for the culottes.

I'd likely make the culottes first - mainly as I am looking at sewing more trousers for myself and having fun with lace and wool as later attempts. Getting more confident with pockets and cuffing trousers. The butterwick 5848 jumper is not something I'd wear to enjoy but I can see the longer dress style could be fun, but I might not be investing the materials and time I'd need to make something I want.

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C . W : Patterns