G . O : Patterns

  

Getting On :

Patterns : Feb 2015 & Sept 2015

Both of these patterns were gifts, passed to me from readers of Prima, I have the coat pattern from February 2015 & the dress pattern from September 2015. I like Prima patterns for their size range - and I usually collect patterns like this, as while I can grade sizes for a decent part. I like to trace a size I need and keep these paper, with any adjustments I make. While, there is no direct comparison here, I still plan to layout which I'm more likely to sew. I paired these two for comfortable autumn/winter wear, with the length options to make things more comfortable for different weathers and temperatures.

Prima Feb. 2015, on the left, is a trench coat style, with a wide collar and tie with a structure to the fit of the coat. It's suggested to sew in wool or wool mix. If you wanted I imagine a cotton mix treated for weather and water proofing would also be a great mix. This would likely need a more fitted look, facings and linings. Coats are something I need to try and practice more - I've sewn with wool and mostly enjoyed it. Just had to remember to keep up with hovering the space. I don't currently have a coat fitted like this - but I have some in a hoodie style, one for dresses and others are loose/not so fitted. I tend to not favour a large collar. This can be trimmed back with wool once made or use snap backs/buttons or stitches to pin them out the way. Or if more preferable close, closer to the neck. Wool and wool mixes comes in a lot more patterns and textures than ever. Examples could be a basic and classic beige camel, tartan, and block colours or tones. More modern twists mean a coat could be made with an Ombre fabric with metallic or dyed half/edge. The result could result in a classic and well used/fitted wardrobe addition or a striking unique piece for an event or specific outfit. I'd love a bright red, but as I have such a coat - I'd likely go for camel or a red tartan.

Prima Sept. 2015, on the right, is a loose draped dress with a pair of darts in the back. A gathered front around the neckline. There are two lengths of dress and sleeves. There are two As you can imagine, looking at a a pattern like this - it requires fabric that drapes well, with options in jersey, polyester, silk, and viscose. Some mixes would do well, if they don't have a body that makes the fabric too stiff. A dress in this style or similar can usually be brought or made in jersey, throughout the year. This pattern would be great for trying different fabrics - to learn how to treat them and the differences it makes in the end result. With such a staple dress you can't go too wrong with print, colour or fabrics. For myself I'd love to see an emerald green silk or jersey. I don't have enough dresses in either fabric, and while I love green I don't find the shades I like. Paired with the coat in camel I'd be warm enough with either result. 

In the end, both patterns are great and as I started out - I think these make a great pairing and would love to see these both made. Both patterns can make a potential staple for a wardrobe, but for myself I'd start with the coat. I don't buy many and wool is still an investment to me when I sew. I'd buy a coating fabric I'm in love with and work hard at this. Whether I go for something unique with colours, materials or thread choice, or a staple designed to fit me perfectly I've been waiting for. I also know I'll learn a lot more about a different style and construction by sewing this. I don't often have side panels and always want to practice sleeves, even if I don't add a lining to them (would help with a longer life and itching for sensitive skin). I still want to see the result of an Ombre fabric, as much I don't see myself wearing it. 

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G . O : Patterns

C . W : Outfit

Changing Wardrobes : Black midi and Cardigan

This dress is a warm thicker material than some of the others, but stretchy. Without too much give,  so good for staying at home and still needing to run out. It's a more suitable length, but i actually like bunching up maxi's when I sew.
I love the high neck with the keyhole, which for more could be bigger. No sleeves, so better for warmer weather, but not the stifling heat we get every 3 days for the past month. The mustard cardigan is a great pop of colour, and my favourite addition to any outfit at the moment. Especially any black outfit. I'd say wear nude tight s and kitten heels, but I've been wear no tights/socks with my cheap-ie runabout shoes - black with a white sole. I can feel made up and still just throw my hair back or up as needed.

I actually liked this dress so much, I originally brought it in two sizes, from primark, 3 years ago. The fit was relaxed in the size 14 and loved the hug for the size 12. The cardigan is also from primark just from 2019. I really like to wear in my cardigans and either buy 1 or buy 3/4 at a time.

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C . W : Outfit

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : 8127 Versus 5751

I have a desire or need to collect patterns for dresses above all other types of clothing. Dresses are my favourite to buy, to look through and what I also tend to sew. Both of these patterns have similar silhouettes, but achieved differently. Namely the number of panels and the pleating of Butterwick's 5751 pattern on the right. Which I think is my favourite of these two. I can see some great options for colour blocking and pairing fabrics. Then I see more adaptability in this pattern, as well -  increasing the bottom width of panels for volume, pleating them to hid more colour, piecing fabric together for the pleats and draping more (though for the volume, an underskirt would be needed). I love the rounded neckline and straps/cap sleeve. I feel these would be more flattering my figure. I also feel I can control the fit more over my waist and stomach - opening the pleats/panels  where it feels best for me. Rather than having  a fuller skirt down from the waist.


While Simplicity's 8127 is posed as a costume pattern for Lolita and Rockabilly. The designs pictured are very eye catching and what drew me to purchase this pattern in the first place. I love Lolita and the shape of these dresses. Though I do not own any Lolita dresses and outfits, nor have I had the chance to sew them just yet. I know the silhouette is flattering but I am picky about patterns for such dresses. Patterns lend themselves so much to the character of such dresses and I would want to be happy with the result, though this idea might be led by the cover image. So time will tell if I ever find a good fabric for my first try. Partially I think the pattern's cover stops me from being creative with the dress I want to make, putting it behind 5751. Imagination is a lot when it comes to being inspired and interesting in sewing a project for me. I do feel like the shape overall would be flattering, but for best results, an underskirt and some adaptions.

In the end, I'm happy to own both patterns, I even feel I could swap some features between the two once I'm better acquainted with the patterns. I just feel 8127 is more of a costume, while I can picture 5751 as a day dress or dressed up or a fun combination of coloured fabrics. Speaking of which I'd probably buy cotton, gingham, broadcloth or linen - so if I found a stunning patterned fabric I'd probably match it to the style I think would suit it best.

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C . W : Patterns

C . W : Pattern

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : 1250 & 6433

Both of these patterns were brought while I was in Derby - but on separate visits to the market stall, about 2013-2015. This was one of my favourite stalls as they had a great collection of printed fabrics, patterns, and they often had swatches for pennies. Great for tests, mock up, illustrations, and research for sketchbooks. I really miss having these stalls to explore, but I do enjoy my local haberdasheries - but the best one is a quilting shop and knitting.

These two patterns are of two very different styles of dresses in the construction and structure of them. Simpliciity 1250 is a reprint of a structured bodice with a circular dress/skirt with a blouse - from the 1950s. It has a peplum trim with the suggestion to add lace and layering up over the bodice in elbow length and a short sleeve. This style really does appeal to me, however I often feel like strapless dresses make slip down on me. Making a dress like this for myself means I add as much construction I need and get the fit to the point I feel like the dress would't drop when going out for dinner - while dancing I think any strapless dress will need to be adjusted at some point. The fabrics would need to have some structure to them - tighter weaves to the fabric so more expensive cotton can be used - but satin and lace could make a very nice combination.

6433 from New Look Easy is a simple yet chic style for loose but flattering style dresses - I love the draped back. The option to do the back was my reason for buying this pattern as I don't often wear loose dresses - its been more recent I even have maxi dresses. I find them best for driving, hot days and doing my hobbies - sewing mostly. This style won't be the most flattering so I would go more towards a fun colour or print that I would relax in.  I might not get the fit I want on my hips and stomach but their are similar dresses which fit the bust and flow down the rest of the body. It will take some adjusting, same with making the back a bigger statement. I would always go maxi with a long sleeve I think.

I still want to try making both of these but I'd have to invest in making 1250 as I'd likely have an ideal in my head. But I have to take that ideal with a pinch of salt. I might not get the colour matches or perfect pattern. I might have to unpick the same few bits over and over.  6433 I would just need something with a good drape. A fun colour or print would be good but I'm more likely to be less picky. I feel like the silhouettes are very classic, however not the most flattering for everybody.

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C . W : Pattern

C . W : Outfit

Changing Wardrobes : Light Blue Maxi

I've recently sewn this dress from fabric I brought at a charity shop - right before lock-down and sewn it a week and half into the stay at home order. So, while I really like how the dress came out the fabric might not have been my first choice. I also have no garden to sit and wear it, but its good and flow-y for sewing and relaxing at home.

I really do like the shade of light blue. I can think of a lot of combinations with my current wardrobe, my first choice is my light tan faux leather jacket and plenty of silver jewellery. Adding some little boots till summer hits. The flower print, is a lot more varied than the other fabrics I picked up. I could also play off of these colours a lot more too.

This was my second try at a maxi frilly trimmed dress, with this type of fabric. I was greatly inspired by With Wendy to try this. I am a lot curvier than her so I knew the relaxed fit wouldn't be the same on my body, along with my limited amount of fabric. I  knew I wanted to have more of a play when making a second dress - I did a pleated back panel, and created my own cutout back for more fit and structure up top.
The end of the ties on the back, are finished with beads. These were the best fit from what i already own, I also didn't want anything too heavy. I think next time I would go for a contrasting softer fabric for the ties. The hem is also a gentle high/low hem, meaning the back does need a thick sole or heel to not touch the floor. 

This was just dress 2, out of 6 that I've made since the lock-down. So, I'm a little tired of sewing dresses already. But I'm looking forward to finding more inspiration to get me to knuckle back down.
Stay home and stay safe. Use your stashes and do what makes you happy.

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C . W : Outfit

C . W : Dress Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Structured Dress Patterns : 5827 Versus 5853

Both of these patterns were brought while I was in Derby - but on separate visits to the market stall, about 2013-2015. This was one of my favourite stalls as they had a great collection of printed fabrics, patterns, and they often had swatches for pennies. Great for tests, mock up, illustrations, and research for sketchbooks. 

These two Butterwick patterns are of two very different styles of dresses in the construction and structure of them. 

The left pattern 5827 appears to be very simple with the option for contrasting fabrics and high keyhole opening. While its my favourite of the two the High neck and yoke  means this dress wouldn't be the most flattering for me. The length and fit with the dress could be very adaptable if you keep a lot of shape in the bodice. Depending on the intended outcome it would need to still look somewhat simple and modern still.

5853, on the right, is the pattern that would suit me better. A sweetheart neckline and defined waist  are much more flattering for me. I'd also feel more comfortable with picking more vibrant and patterned fabrics. While the bodice and skirt have more parts for the construction, as well as a sheer/stretch net neckline - I have sewn with more slippery blouse suitable fabrics. I feel  much more confident and don't feel this would stop me from creating something flattering and on a slightly higher difficulty level.

While I was a university student at the time of buying these two and its now that I'm more able to sew this style of dress with confidence and definitely needed - more space. I'd likely want to use my mint green sheer fabric (Leeds market stall) and use my white lace (brought from charity shop) for the body. The fabric for both would preferably be something with some body and structure to it, both could be made without a lining with fabrics that sit on the middle weight. However, you'd need to consider bias binding the edges, since no lining means the edges will need a tidy finish.

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C . W : Dress Patterns

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : M6465 & 6868

I brought two patterns a while back, both suitable for every day wear and some work occasions. I brought these two together. I think the smarter design from New Look - probably, my favourite from the two. I like the smarter look and style of it. But like everyone I love to be comfortable

Also, I know this style will suit me more than the McCall's pattern, which would be more comfortable in general which a more relaxed style.

The McCall's pattern could give me more options to play with when picking out fabrics and designs.

I will have to explore my stash and see what I have in there! I'm really excited to try half sleeves that just cover the shoulder. This would give my arms more room for movement. I love the idea of the pleated  neckline for A, and pockets on the dress! However I have a skater dress with princess seams, that I have to finish themselves.

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C . W : Patterns

C.W : Dress Alteration

Changing Wardrobes : Dress Alteration

This beautiful dress is a halter neck, with ruched panels and a high low skirt that starts low on the hips, and comes just above the knees at the highest point. My aunt had plans to wear this at the end of May, it was too long even with heels on.

So I got myself a rolled hem foot, and got her to try it on a couple of times before sewing this - to make sure its right:

- First time, i took measurements and roughly pinned the hem to test the length. She wanted it to the heel of her foot, which was just the length of the lining.

- The second time, I again took measurements, pinned more carefully and asked if there were other adjustments needed. the straps had been adjusted by the previous owner and were fine. As well as the rest of the fit. After this I pulled the skirt at the back, front, and sides to lift the skirt, not much, but just enough to fit the skirt a little higher. This meant I could trim the hem a little less. It also meant I didn't need to completely re-hem the front, only the sides and back.

- I fitted the dress a third time before hemming - as I hadn't cut the dress yet. I did adjust what I had pinned before. And pinned the lining as well now. This needed fitting on the sides first before the hem was adjusted to see that it fitted right with the adjustments I had already made. So there was quite a bit of switching between the dress being inside-out and the right way round.The hem was just longer than the dress.

This is want it ended up looking like. I'm quite pleased. As was my aunt - she paired it with this lovely velvet jacket. There were some things I didn't want to alter - the straps as  it could be quite hard to hid the details from the front of the dress, and the center front panel could have been adjusted but the fit was too nice to edit it for a small change. I know small changes can improve a fit a lot. But felt it wasn't worth the risk with this fabric.
The fabric is a synthetic like silk - high end polyester blend. This means it can easily be wrecked when sewing if care isn't taken and it can be quite slippy to sew with.

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C.W : Dress Alteration

Pattern

Another Simplicity pattern

A simple dress with some variations, with a short bodice of an A-line dress and a long skirt. With variations on neckline, collar and sleeves. It's 6-16 so I've got so much room to play with the design, if I want to stray from the elegant dress.

Though a high a-line/empire line is not always the most flattering on me, a simple dress like this is a basic and having a long dress in my collection would be helpful, especially in this skirt shape. A V-neck often does flatter me, however, and having the sensible options for a collar and/or sleeves is nice to have.


I'm interested in what fabrics I'll use for a dress like this. Though I don't see myself using a patterned fabric - like a mad floral or anything too abstract or mad with colours. I might surprise myself though.

I think I'll use a bound edge like the one below A (option D), without sleeves. Though I might try to add a slit, after my first attempt. I'll definitely have some fun with this dress pattern.

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Pattern

Pattern!

My pattern stash!


 This is a asymmetric pattern for a dress - sizes 14 up to 22 from Butterick.
I brought it from my local market which had fabric and the ends bin. Not much else. There were several others that did. I did like this stall best to look at the fabrics, all the patterns and variety they stocked was bigger. Despite the stall being one of the smallest.

It sold patterns, ends of fabrics and also little 5p samples. Great for research and scrap booking but too small for anything else.

I've kept this pattern over the summer, along with a few others- the rest are sitting with my sister who actually has a sewing room. Even if she has no time to work on such projects.

What I love about this pattern is the options I have with mixing fabrics, prints, the splits and shaping. Once made at least just the once - I could probably play with the construction and shape of the dress.


What else could be made? Costumes or dress up? What would you guys suggest? What would you make?

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Pattern!

C.W : Princess Bubblegum

My work space, whilst working - not as big I thought.

I took four to six days worth of my time for a friend. This was to make a dress for a costume party. She asked for princess bubble from adventure time. She really wanted to do this character, she looked at costumes to buy bit at silly prices for a basic dress. The crown alone was £20+ easy. Costumes adult or child are difficult to find. Even any cosplay versions are easily £40+.

After researching the character design, to see want I would make, even though we were sure of the basic dress she often wears was what we wanted - as bubblegum does have a collection of costumes - I took the friend shopping for the fabric. She picked the colours that she thought best for her ideas of the princess bubblegum. She wanted a shine light pink and a strong bold purple. We ended up also shopping for glitter and make up. Neither of use went for pale makeup despite our characters being very pale. The entire process wasn't photographed in full, so apologies to anyone interested in seeing that. I only have photos of the work space and the nearly finished dress and the completed dress.

I started with a pattern with the length wanted - in the bodice and skirt. however this was a fitted dress with panels, and a yoke with/without sleeves. So, I adapted the sleeve pattern and bodice pattern to be how I want it to be shaped. Partially based on the sequined dress in the photo above, which had a higher neckline, but wasn't right up to the neck - this was a night out costume party, meaning it could be very warm. Though the bodice pattern took time to make it, it also came together quickly. The waist was just right but the bust was a little large but again with this being for a night out it was preferable to be slightly loose.

For the skirt and sleeves we wanted extra material to gather so I used the size 16 from the pattern rather than the size 10, but when these pieces were compared to the size 10 this creates the amount I need to gather. The bodice pattern I made had the size 10 and dress measurements to base the sizing of the bodice on.
I also edited the sleeve pattern for more height in the arch to allow for more material to gather and also allow for more height in the gathering if needed for the space to create a puffy princess sleeve. On top of the size 16 pattern piece I also extended the sleeve as normal for a gathered sleeve.

I put together the bodice and skirts first, which allowed me work out sizing and measurements against the dress and my friend with the paper patterns. These seemed about right and allowed me to return the dress - as I had written down the measurements, to refer to later.

The next job was the sleeves and collar. Planning the zip placement - which I changed to the back of the dress. The waist band was final piece to be planned. I had a zip, elastic and interfacing, so my friend didn't have to worry about these pieces when we were shopping.

The bodice and skirt were the first pieces to be sewn, this includes a front bodice lining to avoid the light pink showing anything worn underneath. I also stitched to the point where the zip's length would end on the edges of the skirt. Once the skirt and bodice were sewing together. I next gathered, sewn the edge, hemmed the edge of the sleeve, sewn in the elastic and added the sleeves to the bodice.
The zip's placement had to be planned, before I could continue. However I had to back off from sewing it till I had the waist band ready - pattern piece cut, stitched, turned out, added interfacing and stitched the interfacing into position. Then it was ready to sew onto the dress, then I could add the zip, and finish that area of the bodice and skirt.
Finally the last piece was made, interfaced and added - the collar. This was quite fiddly due to the stitching and ironing, and repeated the process so it sat the right way - you must do the interfacing, then the whole collar the wrong way, then the right way and then add to the dress the wrong way before finally doing it the right way so it sits the right way, and neatly on the dress. Confusing but anyone out there having trouble there are YouTube videos out there - this wasn't meant as a tutorial on making a dress, else I would have explained the processes more clearly.

Finally the finishing was all that was left - this usually includes the hemming, the zip and so on.

I really enjoyed making this dress and would like to say its my full first dress - despite creating one in college, which I did do by myself. But it was a themed project and though wearable not designed with a wearer in mind - it was based on bacteria. I was really happy to have a project for a week and that a friend trusted me to make this and even more so to shop with her to select the fabrics.

Anyway thank you for reading x

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C.W : Princess Bubblegum

Dress In Print - YouTube ads

YouTube gave me ad -  for sportswear. And you know what I liked what I saw, even better it had something interesting for my work - research wise. I want to look into sportswear because of its structure and this collection/brand has a lot going for it design wise. Thus, giving me a lot more to think about.

Structure is something I want to look at because of my jacquard weaves where I  weave pattern pieces and want to create garments from them directly. Using the designs woven on them to help shape and decorate the garment. Sportswear could be a good source of research for this shaping and design. Especially with how to design something aesthetically pleasing whilst having this necessary structure to create the garment. Whilst I do not think this will lead me away from my collections purpose - indoor/leisure fashion wear. Creating some designs closely influenced by sportswear could appeal to my target audience more.

Weaving/knitting to shape is one answer, shrinking  is another possibility.

http://dressinprint.com/

http://dressinprint.com/collections/lets-get-physical

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Dress In Print - YouTube ads