C . W : Patterns

 

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : Prima Oct. 2019 &Vogue Basic Design 1534

This time I am looking at different styles for loose dresses. The prima pattern - Oct.2019, on the left, has a empire line fitted round the bust, 3/4 or gathered 1/4 length sleeves. The skirt of the dress flows from there, seamed down the front, another option is there for having a slit in the front from about knee height. A casual dress, with a vintage vibe, especially in floral fabrics. Cottons, linens, crepe and any silk/silk like will make a lovely fabric choice. I can see this in some abstract florals for a fun twist. Making a comfy dress, you can adapt the fit  to your body and be able to make a fairly simple dress in some nice fabrics or combinations. I can see some going for a faux vintage vibe with  decorative buttons and loops on the front up the seam, to the split.

On the right, I have an old pattern brought second hand in a charity shop (uncut last time I checked), with Vogue's Basic 1534 boxy dress pattern. A lot of variations are included in this pattern alongside the main body - a boxy top with a wide and shallow boat neckline, a key hole at the back of the neck, gathered at an elasticated waist, with a loose skirt. The options include; sleeveless, elbow length sleeves, and full length cuffed sleeve, a neck tie with a wide peter pan style, a split square/pilgrim collar, 2 skirt lengths and finally a contrast band in the skirt if preferred. This pattern would be loose and comfortable some details are very dated and not often worn anymore, including the silhouette. I like to have some boxy fits from the bust with the short skirt, I'd like keep a plain/contrast neckline or have the peter pan and tie style. Split the sleeves under the arm and have them as a capelet style. From there I'd have the try the fit to make bigger changes. One addition to think of is lengthening the parts of the front of the bodice  to exaggerate the boxy look/as if it was tucked in. The skirt can be shortened or length added, as well, to suit.

I would most likely make the Prima Oct.2019 pattern in cotton with puff sleeves and remake in a crepe or more fun print. However, I would love to see the Vogue pattern made and worn, but the dated style makes it difficult to wear when its not in my preferred style from the past.  I would modernise it where possible, and with my body the fit would not be as flattering. Only a style for comfort in my case. I would have to see how this adapts to any changes I make before this changes in my mind.

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C . W : Patterns

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : Aug 2014 & May 2015

Both of these patterns were given to me - both are separates to a make a whole outfit. May 2015 Prima Pattern on the left, makes up a squared necked dress and fitted jacket. White Aug. 2014 Prima pattern makes up a top and skirt pairing. Both patterns allow for matching sets or mixing fabrics or patterns.

These two patterns are of two very different styles of necklines and though the dress and top have similar dart placements - they can be fitted to be more boxy/loose, as the dress is photographed or more fitted as the top. It would also be possible to swap the necklines between them - as long as any sewer is aware of the changes it it bring. For my style - last year I would have likely sewn the dress - I try to wear less trousers when I'm out of work and its even a little warm. Make it out of floral cotton or a glittered black fabric with a heavier cotton. Lowering the neckline a by 2-4 cm. 

However, I would lean towards the jacket from May 2015 Pattern and the skirt from the Aug. 2014 pattern. Making them in matching small print. OR a floral skirt and soft great jacket. I'd do this to have more jackets that would fit me well and I enjoy sewing skirts a lot after making many sun dresses at the beginning of lockdown. The skirt would pair well with a lot more tops I own.  

The jacket - if care is taken- could even be made it cotton with sheer panels or lacey effects. Making a very unique piece.

The top is could become boxy and short on my body - due to my bust. I can make several adjusts to help the fit - however if I made the top and it wasn't a perfect fit I wouldn't wear it even with a matching skirt. Or amazing fabric I loved.

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C . W : Patterns

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : 8127 Versus 5751

I have a desire or need to collect patterns for dresses above all other types of clothing. Dresses are my favourite to buy, to look through and what I also tend to sew. Both of these patterns have similar silhouettes, but achieved differently. Namely the number of panels and the pleating of Butterwick's 5751 pattern on the right. Which I think is my favourite of these two. I can see some great options for colour blocking and pairing fabrics. Then I see more adaptability in this pattern, as well -  increasing the bottom width of panels for volume, pleating them to hid more colour, piecing fabric together for the pleats and draping more (though for the volume, an underskirt would be needed). I love the rounded neckline and straps/cap sleeve. I feel these would be more flattering my figure. I also feel I can control the fit more over my waist and stomach - opening the pleats/panels  where it feels best for me. Rather than having  a fuller skirt down from the waist.


While Simplicity's 8127 is posed as a costume pattern for Lolita and Rockabilly. The designs pictured are very eye catching and what drew me to purchase this pattern in the first place. I love Lolita and the shape of these dresses. Though I do not own any Lolita dresses and outfits, nor have I had the chance to sew them just yet. I know the silhouette is flattering but I am picky about patterns for such dresses. Patterns lend themselves so much to the character of such dresses and I would want to be happy with the result, though this idea might be led by the cover image. So time will tell if I ever find a good fabric for my first try. Partially I think the pattern's cover stops me from being creative with the dress I want to make, putting it behind 5751. Imagination is a lot when it comes to being inspired and interesting in sewing a project for me. I do feel like the shape overall would be flattering, but for best results, an underskirt and some adaptions.

In the end, I'm happy to own both patterns, I even feel I could swap some features between the two once I'm better acquainted with the patterns. I just feel 8127 is more of a costume, while I can picture 5751 as a day dress or dressed up or a fun combination of coloured fabrics. Speaking of which I'd probably buy cotton, gingham, broadcloth or linen - so if I found a stunning patterned fabric I'd probably match it to the style I think would suit it best.

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C . W : Patterns

C . W : Pattern

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : 1250 & 6433

Both of these patterns were brought while I was in Derby - but on separate visits to the market stall, about 2013-2015. This was one of my favourite stalls as they had a great collection of printed fabrics, patterns, and they often had swatches for pennies. Great for tests, mock up, illustrations, and research for sketchbooks. I really miss having these stalls to explore, but I do enjoy my local haberdasheries - but the best one is a quilting shop and knitting.

These two patterns are of two very different styles of dresses in the construction and structure of them. Simpliciity 1250 is a reprint of a structured bodice with a circular dress/skirt with a blouse - from the 1950s. It has a peplum trim with the suggestion to add lace and layering up over the bodice in elbow length and a short sleeve. This style really does appeal to me, however I often feel like strapless dresses make slip down on me. Making a dress like this for myself means I add as much construction I need and get the fit to the point I feel like the dress would't drop when going out for dinner - while dancing I think any strapless dress will need to be adjusted at some point. The fabrics would need to have some structure to them - tighter weaves to the fabric so more expensive cotton can be used - but satin and lace could make a very nice combination.

6433 from New Look Easy is a simple yet chic style for loose but flattering style dresses - I love the draped back. The option to do the back was my reason for buying this pattern as I don't often wear loose dresses - its been more recent I even have maxi dresses. I find them best for driving, hot days and doing my hobbies - sewing mostly. This style won't be the most flattering so I would go more towards a fun colour or print that I would relax in.  I might not get the fit I want on my hips and stomach but their are similar dresses which fit the bust and flow down the rest of the body. It will take some adjusting, same with making the back a bigger statement. I would always go maxi with a long sleeve I think.

I still want to try making both of these but I'd have to invest in making 1250 as I'd likely have an ideal in my head. But I have to take that ideal with a pinch of salt. I might not get the colour matches or perfect pattern. I might have to unpick the same few bits over and over.  6433 I would just need something with a good drape. A fun colour or print would be good but I'm more likely to be less picky. I feel like the silhouettes are very classic, however not the most flattering for everybody.

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C . W : Pattern

C . W : Dress Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Structured Dress Patterns : 5827 Versus 5853

Both of these patterns were brought while I was in Derby - but on separate visits to the market stall, about 2013-2015. This was one of my favourite stalls as they had a great collection of printed fabrics, patterns, and they often had swatches for pennies. Great for tests, mock up, illustrations, and research for sketchbooks. 

These two Butterwick patterns are of two very different styles of dresses in the construction and structure of them. 

The left pattern 5827 appears to be very simple with the option for contrasting fabrics and high keyhole opening. While its my favourite of the two the High neck and yoke  means this dress wouldn't be the most flattering for me. The length and fit with the dress could be very adaptable if you keep a lot of shape in the bodice. Depending on the intended outcome it would need to still look somewhat simple and modern still.

5853, on the right, is the pattern that would suit me better. A sweetheart neckline and defined waist  are much more flattering for me. I'd also feel more comfortable with picking more vibrant and patterned fabrics. While the bodice and skirt have more parts for the construction, as well as a sheer/stretch net neckline - I have sewn with more slippery blouse suitable fabrics. I feel  much more confident and don't feel this would stop me from creating something flattering and on a slightly higher difficulty level.

While I was a university student at the time of buying these two and its now that I'm more able to sew this style of dress with confidence and definitely needed - more space. I'd likely want to use my mint green sheer fabric (Leeds market stall) and use my white lace (brought from charity shop) for the body. The fabric for both would preferably be something with some body and structure to it, both could be made without a lining with fabrics that sit on the middle weight. However, you'd need to consider bias binding the edges, since no lining means the edges will need a tidy finish.

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C . W : Dress Patterns

C . W : Patterns

Changing Wardrobes : 

Patterns : M6465 & 6868

I brought two patterns a while back, both suitable for every day wear and some work occasions. I brought these two together. I think the smarter design from New Look - probably, my favourite from the two. I like the smarter look and style of it. But like everyone I love to be comfortable

Also, I know this style will suit me more than the McCall's pattern, which would be more comfortable in general which a more relaxed style.

The McCall's pattern could give me more options to play with when picking out fabrics and designs.

I will have to explore my stash and see what I have in there! I'm really excited to try half sleeves that just cover the shoulder. This would give my arms more room for movement. I love the idea of the pleated  neckline for A, and pockets on the dress! However I have a skater dress with princess seams, that I have to finish themselves.

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C . W : Patterns